I [heart] Brett… videos!

Cat | Namibia, Uganda | Sunday, November 23rd, 2008

Gotta love my boy Brett who’s “ready to throw his nuts on the line!” He’s traveled through 45 countries, and I think we did about 7 of those countries together! He’s lived in New Zealand as an outdoor adventure tour guide, is doing real estate now in Panama, has been a dive instructor in Mexico and Fiji, has lived in the US, etc. He’s got a law degree and a zoology degree, and he’s trying to get a gig doing nature documentaries. If anyone has any leads, do let me/him know!

Fiji dive footage…

Photos from Africa… (proud to say I actually took a few of these shots of Brett!)

Brett’s video resume…

Nature documentary… where breeding time is the “highlight of the social calendar!”

Uganda on the mind

Cat | Tanzania, Uganda | Thursday, February 14th, 2008

I’ve been watching Last King of Scotland in the evenings this week before bed… Uganda’s definitely been on the mind. I loved listening to everyone in the movie speak Swahili (despite the fact most folks in Kampala speak Luganda, not Swahili). I loved watching the kids dance in village scenes, and watching the extras zoom by on motorscooters in Kampala scenes. (Knowing I was watching LKOS probably explains my third dream of the week: the one where I was responsible for executions/shooting people in the head… yuck).

On the Uganda connection, I’m excited that Susie and I have tickets for the Samite concert happening March 1st at the Kirkland Performing Arts Center. We spent quality time with him on a cross Uganda bus trip in his private taxi when he went back last year for his annual trip. A great musician, an intense personal life history, and a super cool, very generous guy overall. Looking forward to seeing him at the show!

I also talked with a new coworker this week who tells me she’s off to Tanzania for a month with her hubby and two school age kids… super fun! They’re even going to Lushoto based on our travels through. One bummer about the new job… I get 2 weeks fewer vacation time, which makes me sad about travel despite the fact I’ve got nothing yet planned. Ah well. Still hoping for a Panama, Argentina, or Cuba trip, and a Burning Man trip (very exciting, but not the same). Seems Thailand is out again this year (with Caroline’s shifting schedule).

Much love to everyone on this manufactured day of love.

The one year anniversary!

Susie and I began our travels together a year ago today on Jan 26th! I had just finished a 14km marathon through the slums of Nairobi, and flew straight from rural Kenya into modern South Africa. I got in line at customs behind tons of other travelers and couldn’t have been more tired or ecstatic to see Susie on the other side of the guards! Unlike me, she wasn’t coughing, and didn’t appear to have black lungs/TB! Instead, she was looking bright and cheery and bearing gifts, a camera, and a new backpack! Such a fantastic day and such a fantastic start to a wonderful journey together across Africa and back into Seattle life. We found our home with the Nuns, then immediately went to coffee to “plan” the trip. And by planning, I mean catching up and giggling and babbling and talking slowly!

Susie was always better on the road about sending meaningful group updates… so I shouldn’t have been surprised to get this fantastic recap in my email this week. Made me laugh out loud, feel all warm and gooey inside, and even get a little teary eyed. Mostly it made me remember… endless stories… endless adventures… so so so many good times. A girl couldn’t ask for a better travel partner or a better friend to return home to. So much of my love goes out to Susie for making 2007 a remarkable year! Here’s her recap and here are a few of my pics. Enjoy!


Our time in Zanzibar couldn’t have been more surreal, bizarre, or full of Snickers bars!

Cat dear,

Welcome to the one year anniversary of our reunion in Johannesburg. Or so I think – need to review the ol’ journal, but I’m nearly certain it was today. Can you believe that?

What a wild, crazy year it has been. Recap:

-Traveling. Holy shit – elephants in Addo, hilarity at Cape Town pride, meeting Brett in Windhoek, skydiving, sand boarding, basking in the rains of the Zambezi churning over Vic Falls, water slides in Lusaka, 10-hour pickup truck rides, the quiet, broken beauty if Ila, too many “samoosas,” Wimby beach parties, breaking beds in Nampula, the most amazing recuperation mission of all time in Nkhata Bay, welcoming ourselves to East Africa with “why are you so stupid? you stupid, stupid girls!” haggling our way onto the “cheapest” boat out to Zanzibar, planning our Kenya double-date from afar, Susie goes bananas trying to upload photos 5 at a time, strange walks with a strange ex-heroin addict in Jambiani, finding sweet relief from the heat in Lushoto, catching a glimpse of Kilimanjaro on the bus ride to Nairobi, reunions with Brett, discovering sometimes I felt like a plumpkin, the cheapest, most delicious steak ever in Kampala, near-fist-fights getting ourselves around Uganda, trekking with gorillas, rafting the Nile, reunions in Malava, navigating the streets of Mombasa, and the sweet life out on Lamu. Cat, we had one hell of a time.
-The return. Parties, navigating life being “back,” reunions with friends, dinner parties, saying hello to the mountains again.
-Dating. Dear lord. Susie is a disaster, and Cat discovers her knack at rocking the dating world like no one else. You really should get paid for this.
-Going back to our old jobs. Riiiiiight. Still working on that, and who knows, maybe we’ll work together?
-Staring a business. With Cat to thank, of course. Making it happen in Seattle.
-Fibroids. Screw ‘em. And say goodbye to them and hello to life with your body back. Hot as hell, Cat.
-Navigating the new challenges of living in what feels like the same city, but sure is different. Friends here and gone, the SLUT, new restaurants, new music. So much to keep exploring, which is what makes Seattle rock.

Just wanted to say, Cat, it has been such a wonderful, complicated, and exciting year, and I can’t be more thankful to have spent so much of it with you. It is one year after what was the start of a pretty amazing journey, and I look forward to seeing what the next year has in store for us.

Love you, Cat. You’re pretty damed cool.

Big hugs,
S


Standard look for our travel days


World’s worst matatu minibus in Mozambique
(can’t seem to remember if this pic was from before or after the puking?)


Susie & Cat – couldn’t be happier to squeeze us plus a driver onto the back of a tiny motorbike in Kampala

Too tragic for words: murdered gorillas

Cat | News, Uganda | Monday, August 13th, 2007


Too tragic for words
Fifteen men carry a murdered silverback out of the forest

Here’s yet another story that makes me tear right up. Hearing that four mountain gorillas in East Africa were slaughtered last week hit me really hard. Makes me all the more thankful I had the opportunity to visit the gorillas up close and personal in May in Uganda. With only 700 left in the world, you don’t know how long they will be around. To hear that seven have been killed in the last two months is entirely unacceptable senseless brutality. Newsweek actually had it their cover story last week. Here’s an excerpt…

Cry of the Wild
Last week four gorillas were slaughtered in Congo. With hunting on the rise, our most majestic animals are facing a new extinction crisis.

Slaughter in the Jungle
By Sharon Begley
Newsweek

Aug. 6, 2007 issue – On the lush plains of Congo’s Virunga National Park last week, the convoy of porters rounded the final hill and trooped into camp. They gently set down the wooden frame they had carried for miles, and with it the very symbol of the African jungle: a 600-pound silverback mountain gorilla. A leader of a troop often visited by tourists, his arms and legs were lashed to the wood, his head hanging low and spots of blood speckling his fur. The barefoot porters, shirts torn and pants caked with dust from their trek, lay him beside three smaller gorillas, all females, who had also been killed, then silently formed a semicircle around the bodies. As the stench of death wafted across the camp in the waning afternoon light, a park warden stepped forward. “What man would do this?” he thundered. He answered himself: “Not even a beast would do this.”

Park rangers don’t know who killed the four mountain gorillas found shot to death in Virunga, but it was the seventh killing of the critically endangered primates in two months. Authorities doubt the killers are poachers, since the gorillas’ bodies were left behind and an infant—who could bring thousands of dollars from a collector—was found clinging to its dead mother in one of the earlier murders. The brutality and senselessness of the crime had conservation experts concerned that the most dangerous animal in the world had found yet another excuse to slaughter the creatures with whom we share the planet. “This area must be immediately secured,” said Deo Kujirakwinja of the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Congo Program, “or we stand to lose an entire population of these endangered animals.”

Back when the Amazon was aflame and the forests of Southeast Asia were being systematically clear-cut, biologists were clear about what posed the greatest threat to the world’s wildlife, and it wasn’t men with guns. For decades, the chief threat was habitat destruction. Whether it was from impoverished locals burning a forest to raise cattle or a multinational denuding a tree-covered Malaysian hillside, wildlife was dying because species were being driven from their homes. Yes, poachers killed tigers and other trophy animals—as they had since before Theodore Roosevelt—and subsistence hunters took monkeys for bushmeat to put on their tables, but they were not a primary danger.

That has changed. “Hunting, especially in Central and West Africa, is much more serious than we imagined,” says Russell Mittermeier, president of Conservation International. “It’s huge,” with the result that hunting now constitutes the pre-eminent threat to some species. That threat has been escalating over the past decade largely because the opening of forests to logging and mining means that roads connect once impenetrable places to towns. “It’s easier to get to where the wildlife is and then to have access to markets,” says conservation biologist Elizabeth Bennett of the Wildlife Conservation Society. Economic forces are also at play. Thanks to globalization, meat, fur, skins and other animal parts “are sold on an increasingly massive scale across the world,” she says. Smoked monkey carcasses travel from Ghana to New York and London, while gourmets in Hanoi and Guangzhou feast on turtles and pangolins (scaly anteaters) from Indonesia. There is a thriving market for bushmeat among immigrants in Paris, New York, Montreal, Chicago and other points in the African diaspora, with an estimated 13,000 pounds of bushmeat—much of it primates—arriving every month in seven European and North American cities alone. “Hunting and trade have already resulted in widespread local extinctions in Asia and West Africa,” says Bennett. “The world’s wild places are falling silent.”

When a company wins a logging or mining concession, it immediately builds roads wide enough for massive trucks where the principal access routes had been dirt paths no wider than a jaguar. “Almost no tropical forests remain across Africa and Asia which are not penetrated by logging or other roads,” says Bennett. Hunters and weapons follow, she notes, “and wildlife flows cheaply and rapidly down to distant towns where it is either sold directly or links in to global markets.” How quickly can opening a forest ravage the resident wildlife? Three weeks after a logging company opened up one Congo forest, the density of animals fell more than 25 percent; a year after a logging road went into forest areas in Sarawak, Malaysia, in 2001, not a single large mammal remained.

A big reason why hunting used to pale next to habitat destruction is that as recently as the 1990s animals were killed mostly for subsistence, with locals taking only what they needed to live. Governments and conservation groups helped reduce even that through innovative programs giving locals an economic stake in the preservation of forests and the survival of wildlife. In the mountains of Rwanda, for instance, tourists pay $500 to spend an hour with the majestic mountain gorillas, bolstering the economy of the surrounding region. But recent years have brought a more dangerous kind of hunter, and not only because they use AK-47s and even land mines to hunt.

Endangered: Mountain Gorillas in Eastern Congo
The problem now is that hunting, even of supposedly protected animals, is a global, multimillion-dollar business. Eating bushmeat “is now a status symbol,” says Thomas Brooks of Conservation International. “It’s not a subsistence issue. It’s not a poverty issue. It’s considered supersexy to eat bushmeat.” Exact figures are hard to come by, but what conservation groups know about is sobering. Every year a single province in Laos exports $3.6 million worth of wildlife, including pangolins, cats, bears and primates. In Sumatra, about 51 tigers were killed each year between 1998 and 2002; there are currently an estimated 350 tigers left on the island (down from 1,000 or so in the 1980s) and fewer than 5,000 in the world.

If a wild population is large enough, it can withstand hunting. But for many species that “if” has not existed for decades. As a result, hunting in Kilum-Ijim, Cameroon, has pushed local elephants, buffalo, bushbuck, chimpanzees, leopards and lions to the brink of extinction. The common hippopotamus, which in 1996 was classified as of “least concern” because its numbers seemed to be healthy, is now “vulnerable”: over the past 10 years its numbers have fallen as much as 20 percent, largely because the hippos are illegally hunted for meat and ivory. Pygmy hippos, classified as “vulnerable” in 2000, by last year had become endangered, at risk of going extinct. Logging has allowed bushmeat hunters to reach the West African forests where the hippos live; fewer than 3,000 remain.

Setting aside parks and other conservation areas is only as good as local enforcement. “Half of the major protected areas in Southeast Asia have lost at least one species of large mammal due to hunting, and most have lost many more,” says Bennett. In Thailand’s Doi Inthanon and Doi Suthep National Parks, for instance, elephants, tigers and wild cattle have been hunted into oblivion, as has been every primate and hornbill in Sarawak’s Kubah National Park. The world-famous Project Tiger site in India’s Sariska National Park has no tigers, biologists announced in 2005. Governments cannot afford to pay as many rangers as are needed to patrol huge regions, and corruption is rife. The result is “empty-forest syndrome”: majestic landscapes where flora and small fauna thrive, but where larger wildlife has been hunted out.

Which is not to say the situation is hopeless. With governments and conservationists recognizing the extinction threat posed by logging and mining, they are taking steps to ensure that animals do not come out along with the wood and minerals. In one collaboration, the government of Congo and the WCS work with a Swiss company, Congolaise Industrielle des Bois—which has a logging concession near Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park—to ensure that employees and their families hunt only for their own food needs; the company also makes sure that bushmeat does not get stowed away on logging trucks as illegal hunters try to take their haul to market. Despite the logging, gorillas, chimps, forest elephants and bongos are thriving in the park.

Anyone who thrills at the sight of man’s distant cousins staring silently through the bush can only hope that the executions of Virunga’s gorillas is an aberration. At the end of the week, UNESCO announced that it was sending a team to investigate the slaughter.

With Scott Johnson in Virunga Park and Julie Scelfo in New York

News: Uganda bans plastic sacks!

Cat | News, Uganda | Tuesday, July 10th, 2007

I think South Africa is up there for having one of the best plastic bag policies… no thin plastics allowed, and if you want the thicker ones at a grocery store or shop, you have to pay for each bag used. Stores all sell cheap reusable canvas bags, keeping the land pretty and landfills free of excess waste. C’mon US lawmakers… what an easy step to take to help the environment. I know, plastics companies here would lobby till the cows come home and it’ll likely never happen since the government tends to love business profits more than the environment, but a girl can still dream. In the mean time, kudos to Uganda for taking their first step towards cleaning up their own environment. Yet another third world country that’s more progressive that our “developed” first world nation. Maybe Uganda’s legislation will help convince Kenya and Tanzania, or maybe even the US, to adopt similar bills!

Uganda: Uganda is in the East African Union and shares Kenya’s western border (only about 1-1.5 hours from where my village was). Uganda gained independence in 1962, had messy civil war for years till 1985 with the end of Idi Amin, and has active internal fighting still happening today between the LRA and the Ugandan army.

Two recommended recent films: Invisible Children and The Last King of Scotland.

One recommended musician: Samite, a cool guy we traveled with for a brief period who’s done work with Paul Simon, shared managers with Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and has put out 9 solo albums after fleeing Uganda as a refugee and eventually resettling in the States.

Read on for info about Uganda’s struggle to better their environment…

-Cat

Why Uganda hates the plastic bag
By Mark Whitaker
BBC News, Uganda

This weekend Uganda joins the growing number of East African countries which have banned the plastic bag in an attempt to clean up cities and prevent environmental damage including blocked drains.

Before your eyes become accustomed to the sight and the stench, the Chitezi municipal dump – which serves the Ugandan capital, Kampala – is like a scene from a painting by Bosch, a premonition of the Apocalypse, or a vision of Hell.

High in the sky, great birds wheel around on the thermals. At first glance, they look like giant vultures, casting ominous shadows on the ragged human scavengers strewn around below.

But as they touch down on the grey, stinking moonscape, they seem to take on a ghastly sub-human form themselves. Like cowled priests bent over the rotting piles.

With their moth-eaten plumage, grotesque “alopecia-ed” heads, and sinister reptilian eyes, these are Africa’s nightmare birds – marabou storks – fencing with their murderous bills over the carcass of a plastic sack they have ripped apart.

Flocking here in their hundreds, the ravenous birds are making a feast of Kampala’s refuse, squabbling with their human competitors over the richest pickings.

Grey women in flip-flops – some with babes in arms – clamber over piles of jagged metal and broken glass. Men – dust-bathed and ragged – push and shove to be first in line when the next truck comes, bringing the very latest delivery of detritus from the city.

One of the ragged men, Ezekiel, told me he had worked at Chitezi every day from sun up to sun down, collecting plastic for the past 10 years – for 50 pence a day.

Ezekiel told me he had thought long and hard about how the city could better organise its ramshackle waste management. Nobody ever listened, he said.

But Ezekiel – a man at the very bottom of Uganda’s social heap – still had lots to say about his country’s most talked-about attempt to tidy itself up: Uganda’s proposed ban on plastic bags.

Here they are called buveera, and they are everywhere.

Only a tiny fraction of them end up at Chitezi. Instead, once discarded, they are blown in the wind, washed into drains and water courses and eventually ground into the earth.

Uganda is blessed with some of the richest soil in Africa, but around the towns and villages it is laced with plastic.

New strata are forming – a layer cake of polythene and poisoned soil, through which Uganda’s rains can never percolate.

Instead, dotted around Chitezi are stagnant pools where even the storks will not drink. Their fetid waters bubble with the methane brewing beneath them.

In the slums and shanties buveera are breeding grounds for disease.

With no mains water and no sewerage system, the bags are used as toilets. Flying latrines they are called, because when you have filled them, you throw them as far away as you can.

And when the rains come and wash them out there is a good chance that some little boy or girl sent on an errand will see a bag in the street and use it again, to carry firewood or maybe food.

In one of Kampala’s slums I spoke to Bobby Wine – currently Uganda’s biggest home-grown pop star, a man who styles himself Ghetto President and Hygiene Ambassador.

He still lives and works in the slums, and he has written pop songs about plastic carrier bags. He calls them poison.

He points to neighbouring Rwanda. “Man”, he says, “that’s a poorer country than Uganda – but at the border if you have buveera, they tell you that you can’t come in. Why can’t we be like Rwanda?”

Well, the answer is that Uganda will be like Rwanda.

After a fair amount of stalling, the government has just announced that from 1 July the manufacture, import and use of plastic bags thinner than 30 microns will be banned. All other polythene will be subject to a whopping 120% tax.

The decision is perhaps timely. Kampala is gearing itself up for a visit by the Queen in November for the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting – or Chogm.

Everyone is talking about Chogm. The symptoms of Chogm fever – a rash of new buildings, a sudden outbreak of civic pride, general hyperactivity and the smell of new paint – are everywhere. And Chogm may have spelt the beginning of the end for buveera.

With disarming frankness, the country’s environment minister, Jesca Eriyo, confessed to me that she was embarrassed by her capital city’s lamentable standards of waste management; by Chitezi; by its sea of polythene, and its flying latrines.

Now, at last, they could all be headed for the exit door. And not just in Uganda. Neighbouring Kenya is introducing similar legislation. Tanzania wants to go even further and ban plastic drinks containers as well.

Despite its problems and its poverty, East Africa is blazing a trail which many in prosperous Middle England can only dream of following.

And the people I spoke to – the minister, the pop star, the shopkeepers of Kampala, or Ezekiel at the dump – all seemed happy to be pioneers in a post polythene age.

As one man in a corner shop put it: “Good riddance, who asked for all this plastic in the first place?”

Sidenote by Cat: I don’t think of marabou storks as “Africa’s nightmare birds.” I think they’re actually pretty cool… they’re giant, about 3-4 feet tall, and stand hunched over in dark feathers like an undertaker. I rather enjoyed seeing them all over Kenya in addition to Uganda and other countries.

Uganda: Meet Samite

Cat | Photos, Uganda | Sunday, May 20th, 2007


Samite buys veggies and makes a new friend

photo not by me

When we were in Bwindi we were figuring out how to get back to Kampala. Susie had heard there was a guy staying nearby who came alone in a minibus and was probably heading back to Kampala soon. We opted to go over to his lodge and eat lunch there and by luck ran into him at the café. We asked about his ride and he immediately offered us seats in his private minibus. We offered to pay and he immediately refused! Who is this kind and generous soul? None other than a Uganda-born musician named Samite.

We thanked him and took him up on his offer for a ride, and soon learned more about him. He had 56 brothers and sisters. He grew up in Uganda during the rule of Idi Amin (anyone seen Last King of Scotland?). He later moved to New York with an American wife. When he moved to the States, he was already doing music and shared management with Ladysmith Black Mambazo (a fabulous South African band we all know and love). He’s also played on recordings with Paul Simon (“when Paul Simon calls and wants you in the band, you play in the band.”)

I was delighted on the ride home when Susie handed me her iPod and discovered she actually had a Samite song on there from a compilation called “Songs from the Coffee Plantations.”

I was even more delighted later on the trip when Samite says “Hey Cat! What are you listening to right now, right this very moment, on your iPod? Trade me!” Yikes! I was embarrassed to admit I wasn’t listening to music at all, but was instead listening to a comedy routine by Eddie Izzard, a transvestite British comedian. Regardless, Samite and I traded iPods. He got to experience Eddie Izzard (I don’t think he was too impressed) and then quickly switched to Enigma which seemed to be more his style.

I got the better end of the deal and got to flip through Samite’s iPod and listen to some of his music. He’s released seven solo albums, in addition to his work on various compilations or his music in Paul Simon songs, etc. I spent the entire rest of the ride listening to songs from each album and listening to an hour long radio interview his did a year or two ago. I learned he had family members tortured and murdered by Idi Amin’s government. I learned that he went to Kenya as a refugee. I learned that his wife died of a brain tumor. I learned that he started an NGO called Musicians for World Harmony that works with children around Africa at orphanages and refugee camps.

I couldn’t bring myself to ask to take his picture without feeling like a star struck fan, but you can check him out yourself on his site. (I also saw on his website that he has various gallery shows on his calendar of events). Or you can go to the iTunes store and listen to a few songs. His most recent album is a bit mellow and I think I actually like some of the older stuff better. Many thanks to Samite for a fabulous trip at the end of our time in Uganda. We had an incredibly spacious, cushy, comfortable, and direct ride with an amazingly generous host who’s also an amazingly talented musician and photographer. I continue to feel incredibly thankful for the awesome and assorted band of people I’ve met during my year and a half in Africa.

Uganda: Lovely Lake Nkrumba

Cat | Photos, Uganda | Thursday, May 17th, 2007


We found a few new friends at the Backpackers in Kampala (Nathan from Canada and Sarah and Rowena from the UK) and the six of us set off to explore Lake Nkrumba.


The drive from Kampala was gorgeous… you know how much I love driving past lush green tea fields…


They make me happy and remind me of Kenya’s lovely Western Province


Who needs the Tulip Festival when you’ve got Fort Portal?


Who needs Fort Portal when you can stay at any number of crater lakes in the area?


At the lookout point


Blurry Roy finished seven years doing IT work in the Israeli army and is now traveling around for a year


Nathan was a welder and adventure tour guide leader from Canada


Brett’s our former adventure tour guide leader from New Zealand modeling his new haircut


I am not adventure anything, but do enjoy a good hike


I also enjoy spending time with monkeys of all kinds, especially playful Colobus monkeys


We stayed at a lovely place called Lake Nkrumba Community Rest Camp. Private bandas were 15,000 Ush each ($9) and even better than the cool bandas were the high number of monkeys crawling all over the place.


Brett also enjoys spending quality time with monkeys


Cows aren’t as fun as monkeys, but I think the Ankole cows had pretty sweet horns.


Went on a day hike with Roy from Israel. The two of us hiked to “The Top of the World,” a surprisingly easy hike that didn’t take so long. Was gorgeous up there and afforded great views of the many crater lakes in the area.


Passed a boy on the hike who was coming from the farm with a harvest of arrowroot.


I sometimes find myself slipping into the B&W habit thanks to Brett. Uganda has gorgeous countryside all around, whether in color or B&W. Hard to resist a few boring scenery shots.

Yearbook, continued

Cat | Photos, Tanzania, Uganda | Thursday, May 17th, 2007

Tanzania


Omari from Tanzania


Daniel from Portugal, now living in Holland for 17+ years

Uganda


Roy from Israel


Nathan from Canada, eh?


Samite from Uganda, now living in New York for 20+ years


Rowena and Sarah from the UK


Aussie Mark liked to sleep


Though sometimes he could be convinced to leave the couch and be social

Uganda: Buhoma village and Bwindi National Park

Cat | Photos, Uganda | Thursday, May 17th, 2007



Bwindi National Park in the distance


The drive in passed through the forest on bumpy dirt roads with sheer walls of cliff. Wasn’t too pleasing to watch and I admit I actually opted to keep my eyes closed for a long while to keep myself sane (and to keep my food down. Sadly, my stomach has never been the same since my second bout of malaria… just seem to get nauseous now so much easier).


Home sweet home was actually located inside the park boundaries


Most people who stay at the camp are here for one reason – gorilla trekking in Bwindi National Park.


This cabin near ours offered great forest views. We’re told by friends that sometimes the gorillas even come into the camp and hang out. Why pay $375 when you can see them here for free (on rare occasion)?


Brett and I had some quality time for contemplative conversation. (Notice the clean cut Brett… he’s getting gussied up so he can look good when he sees his girlfriend again after a few months away).


Town consisted of a few shacks with souvenirs and a few fancy lodges with clientele who never come into town.


There were, however, a plethora of kids, including this boy with a super cool homemade scooter. We definitely never had anything near this fancy in my village! Quite impressive…


Jumping rope isn’t just for hipsters, though this little girl did have a cool hoodie.


Our new friend Manu buys dried organic pineapple at a mostly empty store. Manu’s from DC and is volunteering for a year with the UN in Sudan. Interesting and fun to swap stories on our different volunteer experiences, and sad to hear safety is more of an issue in Kenyan villages than it is for him in Darfur, Sudan. Sad but true…


We went to a play one night by local orphans to raise money for their center.


They did singing and dancing and you know me… I’m a sucker for kids, dancing, and good causes…


My favorite dance was the Gorilla Song – highly entertaining, complete with grunts from costumed student gorillas.


Precious (and pretty darn funny!)


Leaving Buhoms and Bwindi was kind of sad, but we got the sweetest ride home of all time in a private minibus. And the views were fantastic the whole way… gorgeous county side lined with scatterings of small villages and markets.


Bananas are one of the staple foods of the Ugandan diet. Boiled mashed unripe banana is called matoke and is eaten like any other starch similar to mashed potatoes or ugali. You can also get roasted bananas in the markets or roadside when your minibus stops on the tarmac. I’m a fan of either, but especially enjoy the roasted bananas.

Uganda: Mzungus in the Mist

Cat | Photos, Uganda | Thursday, May 10th, 2007


Photos won’t possibly do justice to the experience of being within a meter of these amazing creatures… but I’m posting some regardless, just to give you a taste of what we saw.

Approximately 706 mountain gorillas survive in the world today, all of them in the wild, and about half of them in Bwindi. On Gus’s birthday (happy first birthday little guy!) I spent the morning on a gorilla trek in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park to spend an hour with them in their natural habitat, just me and the wild mountain gorillas. Well, technically it was just me and Brett, and six other tourists, a park rangers, three trackers, and three armed guards (though I’m not sure if they were there to keep us safe from the gorillas or safe from possible rebels from nearby Congo). It was an amazing experience!


Getting a bit close. We were supposed to be no closer than 7 meters/21 feet, but our guards seem to be the loosest in the park. We spent much of our time within a meter of the gorillas, at which point they’d ask us to move back a bit.

Some background from the web: “In the last century, a combination of hunting and habitat destruction has driven this very rare primate to the verge of extinction. But for the intervention and dedication of a handful of people, the mountain gorilla would surely already be extinct. The work of conservationists such as Carl Akeley, George Schaller and Dian Fossey focused global attention on the plight of gorillas. Mountain gorillas are effectively divided into two distinct populations. The first is confined to an area of around 330 square kms in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The second is found in the Virunga Volcano Region (VVR), which lies across the international borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).


Checking in at the park is a long process, though still quicker than buying the permits in Kampala.


How you doing Brett?


Are you excited to see the gorillas?


Debbie from San Francisco was definitely excited to see the gorillas. Was great to see her and her 68 yr old hubby Gerald out there, hiking up to the top of the mountain. I doubt every 68 yr old would be able to do the trek and was impressed to see them join in… no other way to get to the gorillas unless you’re up for the “bush hike.”


First sign of gorillas: adult gorilla poop!


All of what we saw we saw from a distance in their natural habitat… there were always branches in the way, there was a bazillion flies surrounding them (and then us), and it was just astounding regardless!


The Rushegura group we visited had 15 gorillas… and they did family things like climb all over dad while he was trying to sleep, carry around younger siblings, fight with their brothers and sisters, etc.


Cutie pie


Snack time


Why the guard didn’t look more excited is beyond me. I think I’d be happy to spend a year up there with the gorillas and suspect it’d never get old…

I was in the front taking pictures, crouched down low so others could stand and take pictures over my head. Usually when the gorillas got too close, the guards would instruct us immediately to move back. And we knew the rule about the silverback… if he charges, just crouch down and whatever you do, don’t run as it’ll only get worse! Well, I was crouched down when this 3 year old comes running up at me. I immediately start to move back to keep the meter space between us but the guard warns me against it and says I should stay very still. Yikes! He was only three, but still had sharp teeth and was strong enough to thrash me if he wanted to. Instead he walks up to where I’m crouching with the guard at my side, and is about a foot from me. He reaches up, swats once at the guard’s arm, then bounds off to play more with his friends. Deep sigh of relief from me! They’re cute and funny and playful and furry, but they’re still wild at the end of the day and the risk is still there (as are the three armed men with rifles, yikes).


Less threatening


One of my favorite things to watch them do was climb up a branch after a sibling, the branch then couldn’t sustain the weight of both 2-3 yr old gorillas, then they’d crash down together on top of each other and on top of the other family members below. Highly entertaining every single time!


Giant silverback!! There’s usually one adult male per family and this big guy was it! Why the name? The males develop a silver spray of hair across their back and hips, earning them the name ‘silverback’. This generally takes place around 15-17 years of age, though their lifespan is actually 40-50 years.


Daddy silverback was massive with giant shoulders (and a giant bum). Adult males are usually between 300-600 lbs… I wouldn’t want him chasing after me.


Daddy silverback


Daddy silverback


Momma! Females start having kids around age 10-12, their gestation period is 9 months, and their inter-birth interval 3-5 years.


Kid


Brett takes more pictures. Yep, we were THAT close!


Hard not to fall in love with these faces and creatures


They can run upright… how cool is that?! I forget the statistic about how much DNA we share, but it’s a remarkably high number…


Gorilla hug or headlock?


Got a little nervous when the playful little guy picked up the log, but eventually he lost interest…


I’m sweaty, dirty, fly covered and entirely too excited to be with the gorillas!


Really… I know photos won’t convey everything, but still. I wouldn’t say it was “life changing” like one woman on our trip asserted, but do believe me when I say it was absolutely awe inspiring!


Harder than the trek up and harder than the muddy trek down in the pouring rain was saying bye at the end of our visit…

The Pearl of Africa

Cat | Photos, Uganda | Wednesday, May 9th, 2007

I think it was Winston Churchill who called Uganda the “pearl of Africa.” I’m not sure if I believe him, but it’s definitely been nicer than I imagined. Kampala is built on seven hills (just like Rome) and is quite large, modern, and pretty. We stayed at the Backpackers – a nice enough place with a very surly staff and owner. Hmm. For 12,000 Ush a night ($7), it was affordable and had pretty good food and had a large friendly crowd. The crowd here was pretty interesting. Most other places people are going either north to Kenya or south to Cape Town. Here people are heading north to Cairo, Sudan, or Ethiopia, heading east to Kenya, or heading south to Rwanda or Tanzania. Keeps things interesting as far as travel plans and travel stories go.


Old Kampala (with the National Mosque)


Permaculture farm in Kampala? How cool!


New Kampala. Uncool.


The main transport in Kampala is minibus just like everywhere else.


Susie and I squeezed onto the back of a boda boda. In the city boda bodas are the cheaper alternative… only unlike my village where bodas were black single speed bikes, here in the city they’re scooters, motorbikes, and motorcycles. Some drivers will even let you squeeze two people on the back in addition to the driver. An average ride from the city center to our backpackers was only 2,000 ($1) for a 15 minute ride. Quite affordable and super fun! No helmets of course, and they’ll happily run red lights and go the wrong way down one way streets, but that just adds to the adventure. (Somehow, all of these things, like hitching and three people on motorcycles, feel absolutely okay in Africa when it’d never likely fly in the States. Guess we’ve got to live it up while here?)


Brett and Nathan get close…


Giant maribu storks are all over the city… usually about 3-4 ft tall


Uganda, Rwanda, and DRC/Congo are the only three places left in the world to see the 600 remaining mountain gorillas. This statue is at the offices where you buy permits.


Getting the band back together… we met back up with Brett and will be traveling together for a short time before we head back to Kenya and he heads to Sudan/Ghana/the US.


Kampala’s “The Safari Cafe” has the best meal anywhere for steak lovers. Steak, veggies, potatoes, fresh fruit, and garlic bread for only 5,500 ($3). Seriously – everyone goes multiple times because it’s that good… and these are serious meat eaters judging it one of the best steaks they’ve ever had, better than many of the $20 or $30 variety.


Camilla and I eat steak and smile for photos…


The owner is a Ugandan man who was kicked out during the rule of the evil Idi Amin, who just moved back after 35 years of exile. He was living in Vancouver, Canada for much of that time… another great Northwesterner!


The mouth of the White Nile… site of our white water rafting adventure! Such fun! We used Nile River Explorers and had a great time!


The old team – reunited!

The future is now?

Cat | Misc, Uganda | Tuesday, May 1st, 2007

Well guys, we’ve made our way from Tanzania to Kenya (home sweet home!) for a few days, and are now in Kampala, Uganda for the reunion tour with Brett, our fabulous Kiwi friend and former travel partner from Namibia to Malawi. We’re not entirely sure of our plans, mostly because time is getting very short. I know we hope to see chimps, raft the Nile, hike in Murchinson Falls National Park, have another beauty day, and eat plenty of ice cream. The rest will come as it comes. Afterwards Susie and I head to Kenya for a visit to my village, Kisumu, Kakamega Rain Forest, Lamu, and who knows what else we can pack into the schedule.

In the mean time, I’m sad though excited to announce I’ve bought my plane ticket home. I’m really not ready to leave yet. I’d very much like to stay in Africa much longer if I could. This is not to say I don’t love my friends and family, or that I don’t love hot showers, dating, good food, new music, or a comfy bed to sleep in. It’s just that I’ve also grown to love my most recent home: Africa. I kept delaying buying my plane ticket, debating whether or not I could stay a few months longer, but in the end my (quickly diminishing) bank account won out (as did Suzan’s wedding date on July 1). Guess it’s time to come home and look for a job. (Have leads? Send them my way!)

Happily, I was able to find a ticket that would let me extend my travels just a bit longer. I’ll layover in Seoul for two weeks so I can visit my college buddy Laura. I’ve been to Seoul twice, but both times for only a day each where I didn’t do much besides a bus tour, food, and hotel. It’ll be great to have two weeks to explore, especially with someone like Beal since she’s been there teaching English for the past year. I look forward to crashing on her couch, like she did on my couch for that fabulous summer in Seattle back in my Capital Hill efficiency apartment. I know we’ll have a grand time, even if it’ll be more than a bit surreal being in big city Seoul directly after spending a year and a half in small town Africa.

After Seoul I fly through Hong Kong and Houston on my way back to Austin, where I’ll arrive overwhelmed, stinky, tired, and jet lagged on June 12th. I’m going to need lots of loving when I get home… I know my brain, heart, and emotions will be working overtime for a while. Hey Texans – I hope to see all of y’all for a few weeks before I leave for the wedding! Hey Gus – happy birthday little guy! Can’t wait to meet you next month! Hey Seattlites – I plan to move back by early July. I haven’t been to Seattle since Nov 2005 and I’m excited!

I also plan to road trip from Chicago to the Great Northwest sometime after July 2nd. Anyone up for a road trip, maybe stop for some national parks along the way or dive bars or large balls of twine or mechanical bulls or star gazing? Can you tell I’m not ready to stop traveling just yet? My Honda loves road trips and you could be the lucky one to join me for the final hurrah before arrival back in Seattle. Applicants for road trips should send emails or comments. People with road trip advice and suggestions and free couches should do the same.

Lots of love from Kampala,
excitedly yours,
Cat

© 2007 Traveling Cat