By APNWLNS payday loans

My monkey memories…

Cat | Kenya,News,South Africa | Monday, August 27th, 2007

When Eric mentioned yesterday’s monkey attack story to me, he saw it on a girl’s blog and said “Sounds too silly to be true, let me know what you think…” I saw she listed BBC as a reference, and found the original on the BBC. I know it sounds pretty silly, but I’d say it’s definitely legit. It actually reminded me of a few monkey memories of my own… perhaps I should be writing for the BBC?

Kenya village: When we first arrived in our village, we decided we wanted to go explore the nearby forest… not more than a kilometer or two from our house. However, we mentioned this to friends and coworkers, they very sternly cautioned us against going and told us that monkeys attack women. We were used to Kenyans having all kinds of explanations for things that we didn’t necessarily believe, but we continued to the conversation to learn more. It didn’t take long to realize why monkeys in my village really did only attack women: women are the only ones who sell the produce from the family farms, carrying it on baskets on top of their heads. I’m sure the monkeys didn’t even notice the sex of their “victims,” they just wanted the bananas and mangos the women were carrying through and tempting the monkeys with. Cindy and I went for our forest walk, sans fruit baskets on our heads, and managed to survive just fine. We spotted tons of monkeys in the trees and none seemed the least bit concerned with our presence.

Our house: That’s not to say the monkeys are harmless. They do attack women in the forest, and I distinctly remember one time early on when Amos was pointing out a monkey in the yard of my house. Cindy and I were excited to see a monkey in our yard (that never seems to happen in Seattle). However, the monkey wasn’t excited to see us at the bottom of his tree. He started grabbing fruit from the tree’s branches and hurling it right at us. His aim was actually pretty good and we had to move around to avoid getting knocked out by flying fruit from so high up.

India: There was a monkey news story from 2003 published just a month before I left to backpack India. The story said monkeys were attacking women in northern India and stealing their purses. While the monkeys had no use (yet) for credit cards and hair brushes, the monkeys did know women often kept snacks on their purses and the monkeys were all about the food. The same news article said monkeys were now able to open doors, windows, cupboards, and refrigerators to get to food. Makes sense. As the population increases and cuts into monkey territory, the monkeys were left without their traditional food sources and were getting resourceful/fighting back.

Durban, South Africa: We stayed at a condo in Durban on the very first week of our South African adventure and there were “Beware of monkeys” signs posted about, with warnings to leave doors and windows closed when you were away. The monkeys weren’t opposed to getting in your room and stealing from you. We didn’t have any force their way into our room, but definitely had to guard our stuff down at the pool where the monkeys were running all over and grabbing drinks and snacks sitting next to sun bathers or under lawn chairs.

Plettenburg Bay, South Africa: Monkey hijinks hit an all time high at MonkeyLand in Pletts. I guess it shouldn’t be a surprise that a sanctuary for monkeys would hold lots of trouble makers. They had staff with water bottles to squirt the meddling monkeys and they carried big sticks (not to whack the monkeys, but to make scary noise). The monkeys weren’t deterred. They were stealing from the cafe (I thwarted the attempted of Tarzan by scaring him in the cafe), stealing from us at our picnic table (one monkey got Susie’s Sprite, but didn’t fare well attempting to use her straw), and we heard the fabulous tale of a monkey in the gift shop who showed up with a stick of his own to show the security folks he knew their game.

Quite entertaining, but so tiring to have to always be so vigilant! I definitely feel for the villagers in yesterday’s article. Monkeys stealing from farms and harassing women just aren’t cool…

News: Monkey misery for Kenyan women villagers

Cat | Kenya,News | Sunday, August 26th, 2007


By Juliet Njeri
BBC News, Nachu, central Kenya

A troop of vervet monkeys is giving Kenyan villagers long days and sleepless nights, destroying crops and causing a food crisis. Earlier this month, local MP Paul Muite urged the Kenyan Wildlife Service to help contain their aggressive behaviour.

But Mr Muite caused laughter when he told parliament that the monkeys had taken to harassing and mocking women in a village. But this is exactly what the women in the village of Nachu, just south-west of Kikuyu, are complaining about. They estimate there are close to 300 monkeys invading the farms at dawn. They eat the village’s maize, potatoes, beans and other crops. And because women are primarily responsible for the farms, they have borne the brunt of the problem, as they try to guard their crops.

They say the monkeys are more afraid of young men than women and children, and the bolder ones throw stones and chase the women from their farms. Nachu’s women have tried wearing their husbands’ clothes in an attempt to trick the monkeys into thinking they are men – but this has failed, they say.

“When we come to chase the monkeys away, we are dressed in trousers and hats, so that we look like men,” resident Lucy Njeri told the BBC News website. “But the monkeys can tell the difference and they don’t run away from us and point at our breasts. They just ignore us and continue to steal the crops.”

In addition to stealing their crops, the monkeys also make sexually explicit gestures at the women, they claim. “The monkeys grab their breasts, and gesture at us while pointing at their private parts. We are afraid that they will sexually harass us,” said Mrs Njeri.

The Kenyan Wildlife Service told the BBC that it was not unusual for monkeys to harass women and be less afraid of them than men, but they had not heard of monkeys in Kenya making sexually explicit gestures as a form of communication to humans.

The predominantly farming community is now having to receive famine relief food. The residents report that the monkeys have killed livestock and guard dogs, which has also left the villagers living in fear, especially for the safety of their babies and children.

All the villagers’ attempts to control the monkeys have failed – the monkeys evade traps, have lookouts to warn the others of impending attacks and snub poisoned food put out by the residents. “The troop has scouts which keep a lookout from a vantage point, and when they see us coming, they give warning signals to the ones in the farms to get away,” said another area resident, Jacinta Wandaga.

The town has been warned by the Kenya Wildlife Service not to harm or kill any of the monkeys, as it is a criminal offence. Running out of options, residents are harvesting their crops early in an attempt to salvage what they can of this year’s crop. Unfortunately, this only invites the monkeys to break into their homes and steal the harvested crops out of their granaries. Even the formation of a “monkey squad” to keep track of the monkeys’ movements and keep them out has failed. The area is simply too large for the few volunteers to cover, they say.

Some residents have lost hope and abandoned their homes and farms, but those who have stayed behind, like 80-year-old James Ndungu, are making a desperate plea for assistance. “For God’s sake, the government should take pity on us and move these monkeys away because we do not want to abandon our farms,” he said. “I beg you, please come and take these animals away from here so that we can farm in peace.”

Story published 2007/08/24 from BBC NEWS:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/2/hi/africa/6959209.stm

Angela had her baby!

Cat | Kenya,News | Friday, August 24th, 2007

My friend Angela had her baby on Aug 15th in the village. She gave birth, through an operation, to a baby boy and she has named him Graria. Both mother and child are doing well! Hopefully I’ll get more news and maybe even a picture sometime soon!

Lake Nakuru Safari – October 2006

Cat | Kenya,Kenya local travel,Photos | Friday, August 17th, 2007

Sameer didn’t have time for a trip to Maasai Mara, but we did fit in a safari at Lake Nakuru National Park. I like the park a lot… it’s not as crowded as Maasai Mara and it still has tons of animals: giraffes, zebra, all kinds of antelope, water buffalo, rhino, warthogs, monkeys and baboons, and coolest of all it has over 5 million flamingos and other birds.

Sameer’s Visit in Oct 2006

Cat | Kenya,Kenya local travel,Photos | Thursday, August 16th, 2007

I was lucky to get a few family visitors during my year… my Mom and Dad in September 2006 and my Aunt Linda in October 2006. I was ecstatic that Sameer also managed to come and visit, despite the hectic and always changing calendar that goes with his IT consultant lifestyle. Here are a few very belated pictures from his very fantastic visit. Again, I couldn’t be more thankful he managed to come visit me and experience what he called “the real Africa.”


Sameer got us a room at the Windsor – a super fancy hotel and country club in Nairobi. The pool was my favorite part and I enjoyed a fabulous early morning swim…


We hired a driver to take us from Nairobi to Lake Nakuru for the national park and he decided to bring his fabulously social little girl.


Everyone loves Sameer and this little girl was no exception! She is the one I can credit for teaching me the ubiquitous “Jambo Kenya!” song.


At Lake Nakuru. I don’t seem to have any animal pictures handy (flamingos, giraffes, buffalo, rhino, etc), but I have this picture for some reason. I guess Sameer took it…


The poly tech tailoring training school in my backyard in the village. These teenage girls were totally in love with Sameer… one was even so bold as to say “Just keep talking! I could listen to your voice all day!” Nice!


“Hello! Hello! Hello! Hello!” Our favorite samosa vendor used to call to us over and over, daily, every single time we passed by. We did buy from him regularly, but definitely not daily or every time we passed. Regardless, I had to post his picture to remember him and his greasy treats. The samosas in the village were a mere 5 Ksh (about $0.07) which beats out any samosa in Seattle (usually priced at $1.99 in most local Indian or Ethiopian places).


Snacking on our street samosas in my courtyard. This photo evokes so many fabulous memories from the year. Once Cindy and I bought the lawn chairs, I think we ate outside almost every day… enjoying the sounds of the market and the farm and the gorgeous Kenya weather.


One of my favorite things to do last year, which I didn’t do nearly enough, was to go hang out with the primary school boarding school girls (also located in my backyard on our same compound). They were sometimes kind of bratty, but they always obsessed over me and always included me in their dancing after dinner. Here Sameer gets his first lesson in Luhya dancing.


Smooth!


Bratty or not, I loved spending time with these girls!


Lovely roomie Cindy poses with Sameer


Why I have a picture of my sterilizing water, I’m not sure. But it’s getting posted anyway. This is me using the fabulous “Steripen.” It sucks the life out of batteries pretty quickly, but cleans water effectively… eliminating the need to use chemicals or to buy bottled water that will just litter the land with empty plastic.


Sameer came to the Centre during his visit and got to play with some of the kids. I think he also took this picture of me and Mama Edward.


Sameer was particularly great playing soccer with a few of the boys like Robinson (one of my favorites!). Sad story that about broke my heart: When I went back to the village in May 2007, I spent a bunch of time with David and Angela to hear about the Centre and get updates on the kids. Our head therapist David told me that Robinson now refuses to come for therapy since I’m no longer there. Oh no. I tried to go by his primary school to convince him to go back to the Centre but didn’t see him. On some level I was gladdened to know I wasn’t immediately forgotten by my kids, but ego aside I’m quite sad to know he’s not getting any more treatment.

Anyway, I know that’s not a ton of photos, but they give you a little taste of Sameer’s visit. Nairobi. Safari in Nakuru. Hanging in the village. Visiting my work, the boarding school, and the poly tech. That’s about the extent of my corner of the village and I’m glad Sameer was such a willing sport to come and experience a slice of my world.

Old, old, old…

Cat | Kenya,Photos | Tuesday, August 14th, 2007

I just found a post from January where I said I’d likely be posting bunches of old pictures. Obviously that was before I got an evil computer virus from a Nairobi cyber cafe that rendered my Dell useless from January through July. It’s now August and I’ve got it back and working, thanks to the smart kids at Laboratory Computers in Austin. Their customer service is worthless/non-existent, but they do good work and do it for cheap. Not exactly a resounding recommendation, but I trust them and am impressed with their work.

The post from January said:

I have my file of 30 or 40 half written blog posts, some of which might soon be posted in their unfinished state. Better late (and incomplete) than never, right? So be prepared to potentially be deluged with posts about our safari in July at Nairobi National Park, my July visit to Angela’s family, my safari to Masai Mara with my parents in September, Sameer’s visit to Kenya in October, getting assaulted in Kisumu in October, the most amazing trip to Lamu in December, and more.

YIKES! That means I’m six months to a year behind on safari photos, Angela’s family, Sameer’s visit, etc. I suck. I can’t guarantee they’ll be up anytime soon, but I’ll try to add them as I find time. The good news is I just started a full time job (one is better than three!), but it’s also the start of the school year which is always a particularly hectic time in my life. Anyway, I now offer my apologies to Sameer, Angela, Mom and Dad, and everyone else whose photos are lacking. It’s not a statement of how much I value you, it’s merely a statement on the internet connections that were lacking in Kenya and the laptop that was out of commission for the past seven months. I’ll try to get them up sometime soon. Wish me luck!

Too tragic for words: murdered gorillas

Cat | News,Uganda | Monday, August 13th, 2007


Too tragic for words
Fifteen men carry a murdered silverback out of the forest

Here’s yet another story that makes me tear right up. Hearing that four mountain gorillas in East Africa were slaughtered last week hit me really hard. Makes me all the more thankful I had the opportunity to visit the gorillas up close and personal in May in Uganda. With only 700 left in the world, you don’t know how long they will be around. To hear that seven have been killed in the last two months is entirely unacceptable senseless brutality. Newsweek actually had it their cover story last week. Here’s an excerpt…

Cry of the Wild
Last week four gorillas were slaughtered in Congo. With hunting on the rise, our most majestic animals are facing a new extinction crisis.

Slaughter in the Jungle
By Sharon Begley
Newsweek

Aug. 6, 2007 issue – On the lush plains of Congo’s Virunga National Park last week, the convoy of porters rounded the final hill and trooped into camp. They gently set down the wooden frame they had carried for miles, and with it the very symbol of the African jungle: a 600-pound silverback mountain gorilla. A leader of a troop often visited by tourists, his arms and legs were lashed to the wood, his head hanging low and spots of blood speckling his fur. The barefoot porters, shirts torn and pants caked with dust from their trek, lay him beside three smaller gorillas, all females, who had also been killed, then silently formed a semicircle around the bodies. As the stench of death wafted across the camp in the waning afternoon light, a park warden stepped forward. “What man would do this?” he thundered. He answered himself: “Not even a beast would do this.”

Park rangers don’t know who killed the four mountain gorillas found shot to death in Virunga, but it was the seventh killing of the critically endangered primates in two months. Authorities doubt the killers are poachers, since the gorillas’ bodies were left behind and an infant—who could bring thousands of dollars from a collector—was found clinging to its dead mother in one of the earlier murders. The brutality and senselessness of the crime had conservation experts concerned that the most dangerous animal in the world had found yet another excuse to slaughter the creatures with whom we share the planet. “This area must be immediately secured,” said Deo Kujirakwinja of the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Congo Program, “or we stand to lose an entire population of these endangered animals.”

Back when the Amazon was aflame and the forests of Southeast Asia were being systematically clear-cut, biologists were clear about what posed the greatest threat to the world’s wildlife, and it wasn’t men with guns. For decades, the chief threat was habitat destruction. Whether it was from impoverished locals burning a forest to raise cattle or a multinational denuding a tree-covered Malaysian hillside, wildlife was dying because species were being driven from their homes. Yes, poachers killed tigers and other trophy animals—as they had since before Theodore Roosevelt—and subsistence hunters took monkeys for bushmeat to put on their tables, but they were not a primary danger.

That has changed. “Hunting, especially in Central and West Africa, is much more serious than we imagined,” says Russell Mittermeier, president of Conservation International. “It’s huge,” with the result that hunting now constitutes the pre-eminent threat to some species. That threat has been escalating over the past decade largely because the opening of forests to logging and mining means that roads connect once impenetrable places to towns. “It’s easier to get to where the wildlife is and then to have access to markets,” says conservation biologist Elizabeth Bennett of the Wildlife Conservation Society. Economic forces are also at play. Thanks to globalization, meat, fur, skins and other animal parts “are sold on an increasingly massive scale across the world,” she says. Smoked monkey carcasses travel from Ghana to New York and London, while gourmets in Hanoi and Guangzhou feast on turtles and pangolins (scaly anteaters) from Indonesia. There is a thriving market for bushmeat among immigrants in Paris, New York, Montreal, Chicago and other points in the African diaspora, with an estimated 13,000 pounds of bushmeat—much of it primates—arriving every month in seven European and North American cities alone. “Hunting and trade have already resulted in widespread local extinctions in Asia and West Africa,” says Bennett. “The world’s wild places are falling silent.”

When a company wins a logging or mining concession, it immediately builds roads wide enough for massive trucks where the principal access routes had been dirt paths no wider than a jaguar. “Almost no tropical forests remain across Africa and Asia which are not penetrated by logging or other roads,” says Bennett. Hunters and weapons follow, she notes, “and wildlife flows cheaply and rapidly down to distant towns where it is either sold directly or links in to global markets.” How quickly can opening a forest ravage the resident wildlife? Three weeks after a logging company opened up one Congo forest, the density of animals fell more than 25 percent; a year after a logging road went into forest areas in Sarawak, Malaysia, in 2001, not a single large mammal remained.

A big reason why hunting used to pale next to habitat destruction is that as recently as the 1990s animals were killed mostly for subsistence, with locals taking only what they needed to live. Governments and conservation groups helped reduce even that through innovative programs giving locals an economic stake in the preservation of forests and the survival of wildlife. In the mountains of Rwanda, for instance, tourists pay $500 to spend an hour with the majestic mountain gorillas, bolstering the economy of the surrounding region. But recent years have brought a more dangerous kind of hunter, and not only because they use AK-47s and even land mines to hunt.

Endangered: Mountain Gorillas in Eastern Congo
The problem now is that hunting, even of supposedly protected animals, is a global, multimillion-dollar business. Eating bushmeat “is now a status symbol,” says Thomas Brooks of Conservation International. “It’s not a subsistence issue. It’s not a poverty issue. It’s considered supersexy to eat bushmeat.” Exact figures are hard to come by, but what conservation groups know about is sobering. Every year a single province in Laos exports $3.6 million worth of wildlife, including pangolins, cats, bears and primates. In Sumatra, about 51 tigers were killed each year between 1998 and 2002; there are currently an estimated 350 tigers left on the island (down from 1,000 or so in the 1980s) and fewer than 5,000 in the world.

If a wild population is large enough, it can withstand hunting. But for many species that “if” has not existed for decades. As a result, hunting in Kilum-Ijim, Cameroon, has pushed local elephants, buffalo, bushbuck, chimpanzees, leopards and lions to the brink of extinction. The common hippopotamus, which in 1996 was classified as of “least concern” because its numbers seemed to be healthy, is now “vulnerable”: over the past 10 years its numbers have fallen as much as 20 percent, largely because the hippos are illegally hunted for meat and ivory. Pygmy hippos, classified as “vulnerable” in 2000, by last year had become endangered, at risk of going extinct. Logging has allowed bushmeat hunters to reach the West African forests where the hippos live; fewer than 3,000 remain.

Setting aside parks and other conservation areas is only as good as local enforcement. “Half of the major protected areas in Southeast Asia have lost at least one species of large mammal due to hunting, and most have lost many more,” says Bennett. In Thailand’s Doi Inthanon and Doi Suthep National Parks, for instance, elephants, tigers and wild cattle have been hunted into oblivion, as has been every primate and hornbill in Sarawak’s Kubah National Park. The world-famous Project Tiger site in India’s Sariska National Park has no tigers, biologists announced in 2005. Governments cannot afford to pay as many rangers as are needed to patrol huge regions, and corruption is rife. The result is “empty-forest syndrome”: majestic landscapes where flora and small fauna thrive, but where larger wildlife has been hunted out.

Which is not to say the situation is hopeless. With governments and conservationists recognizing the extinction threat posed by logging and mining, they are taking steps to ensure that animals do not come out along with the wood and minerals. In one collaboration, the government of Congo and the WCS work with a Swiss company, Congolaise Industrielle des Bois—which has a logging concession near Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park—to ensure that employees and their families hunt only for their own food needs; the company also makes sure that bushmeat does not get stowed away on logging trucks as illegal hunters try to take their haul to market. Despite the logging, gorillas, chimps, forest elephants and bongos are thriving in the park.

Anyone who thrills at the sight of man’s distant cousins staring silently through the bush can only hope that the executions of Virunga’s gorillas is an aberration. At the end of the week, UNESCO announced that it was sending a team to investigate the slaughter.

With Scott Johnson in Virunga Park and Julie Scelfo in New York

John Steinbeck was on to something

Cat | Kenya,News,United States | Sunday, August 12th, 2007

Have I posted this quote before?

“Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. Tour masters, schedules, reservations, brass-bound and inevitable, dash themselves to wreckage on the personality of the trip. Only when this is recognized can the blown-in-the-glass bum relax and go along with it. Only then do the frustrations fall away. In this a journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it. I feel better now, having said this, although only those who have experienced it will understand it.”
- John Steinbeck

I particularly love the last two sentences: “In this a journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it. I feel better now, having said this, although only those who have experienced it will understand it.” Good man.

My cousin Steph sent a little “get to know you” type email this week where you’re supposed to answer a bunch of questions like favorite drink, how many states you’ve lived in, etc. I don’t usually fill those emails out, but I was excited to see Steph emailing me, so I responded. Most of the questions weren’t too exciting, but it also asked about the last time you cried, which made me stop and think. Since returning to Seattle, I’ve actually teared up or cried a fair number of times. Definitely still adjusting to being back and adjusting to being away from Kenya. And with the National Geographic cover story on Malaria, Vanity Fair’s first ever Africa issue, and now the Mountain Gorillas on the cover of Newsweek, there seems to be constant reminders of where I was, what I lived through, and what I’m currently musing or missing.

It’s kind of hard being back, which I knew it would be. And everything seems so difficult right now… what happened to life feeling straight forward and clear? I definitely don’t have anything in life that feels remotely straightforward or clear for the time being. Except maybe for my apartment. I meet with my future land lord this coming Wednesday and then I’ll have a (small) place to call my own. Cindy and I moved out of our house in the village on December 15th and it’s been a long time moving from place to place, living out of a suitcase, sleeping in a tent, and now crashing on a friend’s couch. I know having a bed to sleep in will be fabulous for my back and for general peace of mind, but I also know it won’t magically make everything else fall into place. It’s a start though… first a place to live. Eventually a new job. Then bigger life questions to follow. Who knows… maybe I’ll even figure out where I fit in with friends and relationships someday too. :)

Road trip pictures

Cat | Photos,United States | Tuesday, August 7th, 2007


Sunrise at Crater Lake National Park

Here are a few pics from the road trip. To see more, I’ve posted the rest of the road trip pictures in my picasa account. Enjoy!

Community Questions Woodland Park Zoo’s ‘Maasai Journey’

Cat | Kenya,News,United States | Monday, August 6th, 2007

Hmmm… Maasai showing crafts and culture apparently perpetuates degrading associations of the African continent. Anyone hear about this debate? Any thoughts? Just saw this notice and thought it was interesting, though I’m not sure where I fall in the debate. I really haven’t heard much else about it yet.

Community Questions Woodland Park Zoo’s ‘Maasai Journey’ Exhibit (Seattle, WA) – Community members and local scholars will host a public forum on August 8, 2007 at the Langston Hughes Performing Arts Center, West Room, 6:30 pm-8:00 pm to air their concerns about the Woodland Park Zoo’s ongoing display of Maasai people, crafts, and culture. “Maasai Journey” is an expanded version of the Zoo’s long established “African Savannah” exhibit, and includes four Maasai “cultural interpreters” who tell stories and sell Maasai crafts in a reconstructed African village. The resulting display of African men and culture within a setting generally reserved for presenting wildlife and natural habitats invokes the horrific history of the disempowerment of native Americans and people of color in the United States and perpetuates degrading associations of the African continent, its people, and its cultures with all that is wild, exotic, and timeless. Following a rigorous nation-wide debate about a similar exhibit in Augsburg, , in 2005, international scholars described the WPZ’s ” African Village ” as the most egregious example of a global trend towards racialization or the insidious separation of human beings into allegedly biologically-based and unequal categories. Not only are we concerned about the impact of this exhibit on the youthful population that constitutes the majority of the zoo’s audience, we are disturbed by what this exhibit indicates about the place of African and other non-American cultures and peoples in our community, and by the impact of “Maasai Journey” on the image of our city.

About the Organizers – The Public Forum is being organized by Stephanie Camp, Associate Professor of History at the University of Washington; Catherine Claiborne, a community activist and Master’s Candidate in Public Affairs and International Studies at the University of Washington; and Itohan Osayimwese, PhD Candidate in the History of Architecture at the University of Michigan. The purpose of the forum is to stimulate debate within the community, encourage those who have voiced concerns to share them, and to identify and propose alternatives to the “Maasai Journey”.

© 2007 Traveling Cat