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Giardia

Cat | News | Tuesday, January 29th, 2008

Guess who was just diagnosed with a “rare strain” of giardia? Yep, my doctor called me today with my lab results from last week and now I’m off to the chemist to get a prescription filled. Yay drugs!

Classy response from Brett was too great to not share:
“Nice try but I still don’t think that tops my flea experience….though considering the fibroids I think you win. Hope you are ok sweetie and with any luck your bleeding and shitting from your nether regions will get sorted so can actually start dating again xoxo”

The one year anniversary!

Susie and I began our travels together a year ago today on Jan 26th! I had just finished a 14km marathon through the slums of Nairobi, and flew straight from rural Kenya into modern South Africa. I got in line at customs behind tons of other travelers and couldn’t have been more tired or ecstatic to see Susie on the other side of the guards! Unlike me, she wasn’t coughing, and didn’t appear to have black lungs/TB! Instead, she was looking bright and cheery and bearing gifts, a camera, and a new backpack! Such a fantastic day and such a fantastic start to a wonderful journey together across Africa and back into Seattle life. We found our home with the Nuns, then immediately went to coffee to “plan” the trip. And by planning, I mean catching up and giggling and babbling and talking slowly!

Susie was always better on the road about sending meaningful group updates… so I shouldn’t have been surprised to get this fantastic recap in my email this week. Made me laugh out loud, feel all warm and gooey inside, and even get a little teary eyed. Mostly it made me remember… endless stories… endless adventures… so so so many good times. A girl couldn’t ask for a better travel partner or a better friend to return home to. So much of my love goes out to Susie for making 2007 a remarkable year! Here’s her recap and here are a few of my pics. Enjoy!


Our time in Zanzibar couldn’t have been more surreal, bizarre, or full of Snickers bars!

Cat dear,

Welcome to the one year anniversary of our reunion in Johannesburg. Or so I think – need to review the ol’ journal, but I’m nearly certain it was today. Can you believe that?

What a wild, crazy year it has been. Recap:

-Traveling. Holy shit – elephants in Addo, hilarity at Cape Town pride, meeting Brett in Windhoek, skydiving, sand boarding, basking in the rains of the Zambezi churning over Vic Falls, water slides in Lusaka, 10-hour pickup truck rides, the quiet, broken beauty if Ila, too many “samoosas,” Wimby beach parties, breaking beds in Nampula, the most amazing recuperation mission of all time in Nkhata Bay, welcoming ourselves to East Africa with “why are you so stupid? you stupid, stupid girls!” haggling our way onto the “cheapest” boat out to Zanzibar, planning our Kenya double-date from afar, Susie goes bananas trying to upload photos 5 at a time, strange walks with a strange ex-heroin addict in Jambiani, finding sweet relief from the heat in Lushoto, catching a glimpse of Kilimanjaro on the bus ride to Nairobi, reunions with Brett, discovering sometimes I felt like a plumpkin, the cheapest, most delicious steak ever in Kampala, near-fist-fights getting ourselves around Uganda, trekking with gorillas, rafting the Nile, reunions in Malava, navigating the streets of Mombasa, and the sweet life out on Lamu. Cat, we had one hell of a time.
-The return. Parties, navigating life being “back,” reunions with friends, dinner parties, saying hello to the mountains again.
-Dating. Dear lord. Susie is a disaster, and Cat discovers her knack at rocking the dating world like no one else. You really should get paid for this.
-Going back to our old jobs. Riiiiiight. Still working on that, and who knows, maybe we’ll work together?
-Staring a business. With Cat to thank, of course. Making it happen in Seattle.
-Fibroids. Screw ‘em. And say goodbye to them and hello to life with your body back. Hot as hell, Cat.
-Navigating the new challenges of living in what feels like the same city, but sure is different. Friends here and gone, the SLUT, new restaurants, new music. So much to keep exploring, which is what makes Seattle rock.

Just wanted to say, Cat, it has been such a wonderful, complicated, and exciting year, and I can’t be more thankful to have spent so much of it with you. It is one year after what was the start of a pretty amazing journey, and I look forward to seeing what the next year has in store for us.

Love you, Cat. You’re pretty damed cool.

Big hugs,
S


Standard look for our travel days


World’s worst matatu minibus in Mozambique
(can’t seem to remember if this pic was from before or after the puking?)


Susie & Cat – couldn’t be happier to squeeze us plus a driver onto the back of a tiny motorbike in Kampala

Violence straight from the mouth of fighters

Cat | Kenya,News | Monday, January 21st, 2008

Another article from the NY Times that brings me tears of sadness:

Signs in Kenya That Killings Were Planned
January 21, 2008
By JEFFREY GETTLEMAN

KERINGET, Kenya — At first the violence seemed as spontaneous as it was shocking, with machete-wielding mobs hacking people to death and burning women and children alive in a country that was celebrated as one of Africa’s most stable. But a closer look at what has unfolded in the past three weeks, since a deeply flawed election plunged Kenya into chaos, shows that some of the bloodletting that has left more than 650 people dead may have been premeditated and organized.

Leaflets calling for ethnic killings mysteriously appeared before the voting. Politicians with both the government and opposition parties gave speeches that stoked long-standing hatred among ethnic groups. And local tribal chiefs held meetings to plot attacks on rivals, according to some of them and their followers.

As soon as the election results were announced, handing a suspiciously thin margin of victory to Kenya’s president, Mwai Kibaki — whose policies of favoring his own ethnic group have marginalized about half the country — all the elements lined up for the violence to explode.

Thousands of young men swept the countryside, burning homes and attacking members of rival ethnic groups. The killings go on. On Friday, six bodies arrived at a morgue in the town of Narok, northwest of Nairobi, some with deep spear wounds. On a strip of white medical tape affixed to the victims’ foreheads was written their names, dates of death and the cause: “Post-elections violence.”

“It wasn’t like people just woke up and started fighting each other,” said Dan Juma, the acting deputy director of the Kenya Human Rights Commission. “It was organized.” What is not clear is if there was a systematic plan to start a nationwide ethnic war, and whether high-level political leaders played a role beyond possibly inciting violence through hate speech.

Before the election, it was easy to forget that even Kenya, with its reputation as an African success story and land of tolerance, was split along ethnic lines that are ripe for political manipulation. The grievances, typically about land, economic opportunity and political power, are real and often justified, though usually held in check.

Nowhere are those tensions more evident than in the Rift Valley of western Kenya, which has some of the most fabled and productive land in Africa but recently has been turned into a scene out of “The Grapes of Wrath,” with tens of thousands of desperate people fleeing in battered pickups piled high with beds, chairs, blankets and children. Some trucks are so overloaded their bumpers hang just millimeters above the road.

The violence here is decidedly different from that which grinds on in Kenya’s slums, where police officers have opened fire on unarmed demonstrators and rival gangs prowl alleys with rocks in their hands. In the Rift Valley, people do not keep their hatreds or activities secret. Those who have taken part in the killings say the attacks were community efforts, sanctioned by elders and guided by traditions that celebrate a warrior culture.

On a recent day, a dozen young men with faces smeared with mud stepped out of the forest near the small town of Keringet. They were from the Kalenjin ethnic group and said they had killed 20 people this month. They were armed with bows, arrows, clubs and knives. Some wore animal skins with cellphones tucked in the folds.

Rono Kibet, one of the men, said elders in his community called a big meeting on Dec. 30. That was the night that Kenya’s election results were announced, giving Mr. Kibaki the victory over Raila Odinga, the top opposition leader, despite widespread evidence of vote rigging. More than 2,000 young men gathered, Mr. Kibet said, and the elders urged them to kill Kikuyus, Mr. Kibaki’s ethnic group, and burn down their houses. The Kalenjin had fought them before.

“The community raised the money for the gasoline,” Mr. Kibet said. He explained how the elders blessed the young men, who then split into teams of 50 to hunt down Kikuyus with bows and arrows. He did not feel bad about shooting them, he said. “We attack people, we burn their homes and then we take their animals,” Mr. Kibet said matter-of-factly.

A few villages away and a couple of hours later, Kikuyu farmers scanned the hilltops with a pair of old field glasses that never seemed quite in focus. They carried homemade guns built of wood, water pipes and umbrella springs, highly illegal but highly necessary, they said.

Some of the sentinels were among the most educated people in the area. One, Wilson Muiruri, a University of Nairobi student, was spending his Christmas holiday moonlighting as a warrior. “I don’t hate Kalenjins at the university,” he said. “But out here, it’s different.”

In Nairobi, the capital, a senior Kenyan police official cracked open a thick binder, with the subject line “ETHNIC CLASHES,” that revealed evidence of what he called a pattern of highly orchestrated mayhem in the Rift Valley. According to the reports, a nine-foot ditch had been cut in an asphalt road by an earth mover, apparently to prevent authorities from being able to get to conflict zones to intervene; thousands of armed men had suddenly materialized in thinly populated villages; and a roadblock had been built with 10 tons of concrete.

“You don’t move 10 tons of concrete on your back,” said the police official, who spoke on the condition of anonymity because he was not authorized to share this information publicly. “This is a full military operation.”

Most clashes are in rural areas, which are difficult for the police to reach, and the government strategy so far has been to use military escorts to evacuate the people who want to leave.

But government officials may have been part of the problem. About a month before the election, the police found a large weapons cache — 20 bows, 50 arrows, 30 clubs, 30 machetes and 30 swords — in a government car belonging to an assistant minister, a member of the president’s party. The assistant minister, who was not in the car at the time and has denied involvement, has yet to be charged. In any case, several residents in the Rift Valley and local aid workers said parliamentary candidates had been arming young men, though no arrests had been made.

Although the authorities have not produced any evidence directly linking top politicians to violence, human rights groups documented speeches by political leaders assailing certain ethnic groups in the run-up to the election. William Ruto, a charismatic opposition leader and Kalenjin chief, was quoted talking about Kikuyu domination.

Kikuyu politicians, meanwhile, made disparaging remarks about Luos and about how Mr. Odinga, a Luo, was not fit to rule because he is uncircumcised. At the same time, fliers appeared in several towns in the Rift Valley telling Kikuyus to leave. “Warning! Warning! Warning!” read one flier. “Anyone who does not obey will die.”

In some cases, the literature seemed to be part of a campaign of dirty tricks to tarnish rivals. In November, a document surfaced in Nairobi, marked confidential and supposedly written by opposition leaders, that laid out a strategy to use “ethnic tensions/violence as a last resort.”

“It’s absolutely fake,” said Peter Wanyande, an opposition strategist whose name appears on the document with the wrong first name. “Our opponents are the ones using ethnic violence. It’s terrible.”

The government is blaming opposition supporters and their leaders for the Rift Valley bloodshed, especially the episode in which up to 50 women and children seeking sanctuary in a church were burned alive. “This is ethnic cleansing,” said Alfred Mutua, a spokesman for the Kenyan government.

Several local chiefs of the Kalenjin and Masai communities said they held meetings before the election discussing how they would attack Kikuyus and push them off their land. Top opposition politicians have said they were not involved and that there were no plans for violence. “The problem was created at the spur of the moment when the elections were stolen,” Mr. Ruto said.

The disappointing reality is that all this has happened before in Kenya: the same places, the same ethnic fault lines, even the same tactics, down to the mud-smeared faces. Both of the times that ethnic violence has swept across the Rift Valley, the early 1990s and now, local tensions have been ignited by politics.

The problem starts with land. In the 1960s and 1970s, Kikuyus from the central highlands of Kenya acquired large farms, some legally, some questionably through their connections to Kenya’s first president, Jomo Kenyatta, a Kikuyu. That planted a grudge with local groups like the Kalenjin and Masai. Kenya’s president in 1991, Daniel arap Moi, exploited the hard feelings for his own agenda. Mr. Moi, a Kalenjin, was facing re-election, and he used his network of police chiefs and tribal elders to attack Kikuyus and other ethnic groups affiliated with the nascent opposition movement. The clashes claimed more than 1,000 lives, and though they had subsided by the late 1990s, they never really stopped.

And this recent election cycle, once again, was primed for disaster. For the first time since the 1960s, two heavyweights from rival ethnic groups squared off in a hotly contested race, giving it an inevitable ethnic tinge. The backdrop was growing resentment toward Kikuyus, partly because Mr. Kibaki had put Kikuyus in charge of the most powerful positions in Kenya.

Many Kalenjin in the Rift Valley felt their time for redress had come. Mr. Odinga was polling well and promised to implement a policy called majimbo, which means something like federalism but has been interpreted by many to imply the eviction of ethnic groups (namely the Kikuyus) from areas not native to them.

Ethnicity in Africa, said Ted Dagne, an Africa specialist for the Congressional Research Service, is an easy flash point because of the perception — and often the practice — that the ethnic group in power will help its own people first and marginalize others. “You don’t see these issues in Kenya as obviously as you see them, say, in Somalia,” Mr. Dagne said, “but underneath, it’s there.”

So are cultural undercurrents. Mr. Kibet, the Kalenjin fighter, explained how at 14 he was sent into the forest for a few months to be circumcised and learn the ways of his people. He was taught how to shoot a bow and crack a skull with a wooden club. He described a transformation that he and his friends routinely make, shedding their jeans and day jobs for war paint and clubs.

“The Kikuyu are our enemy because they are on our land,” he said. “It is not good to kill their women or children. But to kill one of their men, that is an achievement.”

Demonstrations in Kisumu and Mombasa

Cat | Kenya,News | Thursday, January 17th, 2008

From the NY Times:

NAIROBI, Kenya — Opposition protests resumed in Kenya on Wednesday, and as many people here feared, violence erupted across the country once again.

The worst clashes were in Kisumu, Kenya’s third largest city and an opposition stronghold, where mobs of furious young men hurled stones at police officers, who responded by charging into the crowds and firing their guns.

One of Kenya’s television stations broadcast images of a police officer in Kisumu shooting an unarmed protester who was dancing in the street and making faces at security agents. After the protester fell to the ground, the officer ran up to him and kicked him several times. Witnesses said the protester later died.

“There’s been war since the morning,” said Eric Otieno, a mechanic in Kisumu. “The police are whipping women, children, everyone. We were just trying to demonstrate peacefully.”

Eric Kiraithe, a spokesman for the Kenyan police, said the only people wounded by police officers were hooligans destroying property and robbing people. “What we are seeing are teams of young men trying to commit crimes,” Mr. Kiraithe said. “You cannot call this a demonstration.”

Moving forward

Cat | Kenya,News | Tuesday, January 15th, 2008

More from Kenya… sounds like there was almost a throw down in Parliament but more security came as the yelling intensified and the two sides were moving towards the center of the room. First round of votes went to the opposition/ODM party. We’ll hope former United Nations secretary general, Kofi Annan, can do some meaningful mediation upon his arrival…

Kenyan Opposition Wins a Skirmish
By JEFFREY GETTLEMAN
Published: January 16, 2008

Opposition leader Raila Odinga, left, and members of his Orange Democratic Movement attended as Kenya’s parliament opened on Tuesday in Nairobi for its first session since a disputed presidential election.

NAIROBI, Kenya — Opposition leaders on Tuesday won their first political skirmish since Kenya’s disputed presidential election, garnering the most votes for the influential position of the next parliamentary speaker. The voting capped a a heated opening session of the country’s Parliament, which met for the first time since the election last month. That election has been widely criticized as flawed and were the catalyst for widespread sectarian violence that left hundreds of people dead.

Members shouted at each other and argued for an hour-and-a-half over the process of selecting the next speaker. Opposition leaders repeated their accusation that the government had rigged the vote in the Dec. 27 election, and at first insisted that the vote for the speaker’s position not be cast in secret.

“You went into elections with secret ballots and you stole the vote!” said William Ruto, a vocal opposition leader. The president’s party responded by heckling Mr. Ruto with jeers of “genocide” and accusing him and other opposition leaders of being responsible for the wave of violence in Kenya that followed the vote.

The opposition has vowed to carry out a protest across the country on Wednesday that many fear could degenerate into a new round of violence and destruction.

The first tally for parliament speaker indicated that the opposition’s candidate, received 104 out of 207 votes, ahead of the 99 votes for the government’s candidate. Kenya’s parliamentary rules require three rounds of voting if there is not a candidate who earns two thirds of the vote.

Members of the government’s political party were outraged at the beginning of the session when opposition members cast their ballet for the speaker and then showed their ballets to their colleagues. The two sides then went back and forth for an hour and a half, shouting at each other and arguing whether or not the rules called for the ballot to be secret.

As the debate intensified members from the two sides started shouting at each other and moving closer to the middle of the room, and additional security guards stepped between them to calm them.

New mediator selected

Cat | Kenya,News | Friday, January 11th, 2008

Archbishop Desmond Tutu has tried to get both sides to talk. Ghanaian president John Kufuor, chair of the African Union, tried to get both sides to talk. Dignitaries from the US and the EU tried, but no success yet. Now, there’s one more person in line offering to be of assistance… let’s hope some eventual progress will be made… More from the NY Times:

With no sign of a breakthrough in the Kenyan political crisis, it appears that a high-profile mediator may be flying in to help: Kofi Annan. The African Union announced on Thursday that Mr. Annan, the former secretary general of the United Nations, was taking over the role played by President John Kufuor of Ghana, who is also the chairman of the African Union.

Mr. Kufuor spent the past two days in Kenya trying to broker a truce between the government and opposition leaders to end the crisis here, which erupted after flawed elections last month and left hundreds dead from violence. Mr. Kufuor failed to get the two sides even to meet, but he insisted that all was not lost.

“Both sides agreed there should be an end to the violence, and they also agreed there should be dialogue,” he said. Mr. Annan will lead a panel of African dignitaries who are coming to try to bring the two sides together, Mr. Kufuor said.

Kibaki appoints biased cabinet

Cat | Kenya,News | Wednesday, January 9th, 2008

More from the NY Times… doesn’t seem like much of a power share when you don’t put any opposition leaders in the Cabinet…

Unbowed, Mwai Kibaki, Kenya’s president, announced Tuesday that he had chosen half of his new cabinet. He entrusted the most important ministries, like internal security, finance, energy and justice, to political allies. He appointed Kalonzo Musyoka, who came in a distant third in last month’s election, as vice president. Not a single member of the Orange Democratic Party, Mr. Odinga’s opposition party, which won the most seats in Parliament, was appointed.

Mr. Kibaki said, “In naming the cabinet, I have considered the importance of keeping the country united, peaceful and prosperous and a strong broad-based leadership.”

Opposition leaders called that “a slap in the face.” “You don’t pre-empt negotiations by giving away all the important posts,” said Salim Lone, a spokesman for Mr. Odinga. “This shows that the government is not seriously committed to dialogue.”

I love the people you meet when traveling!

Cat | News,Photos,South Africa | Monday, January 7th, 2008

Tragic Kenya news continues, with the death toll over 500 with some 255,000 people displaced from their homes. However, this post will be focusing on something more uplifting, something that has nothing to do with elections or tribal fighting.

Today we focus on great men! I was fortunate to meet many fabulous people out traveling on the grand African adventure last year, and oddly, most seemed to be incredibly attractive, intelligent, fun, sweet, well traveled men. I consider myself a lucky girl! Brett from New Zealand may be visiting me and Susie in Seattle in the next month or two, Mike from Atlanta is actually moving to Seattle in the next month or two, David from Montreal sent an email inviting me to meet up in Vancouver this spring, and I got emails over the holidays from both Anders in Denmark and Ralf in Germany wishing me well and keeping me updated on life. So fantastic!

And now, there’s one more update to mention. Susie and I met up with Chinezi while in Joburg last January. He sent an Italian named Mario to pick us up and deliver us at his posh apartment for a party, then we joined him later in the night for a second party. And we just found an article about him in the South African Times newspaper that wrote about him like he was a celebrity! We should feel honored that Chinezi took us to parties and drove us home in the same fancy sports car mentioned in the article. So funny! Gotta love it!

New man, new mag for Dhlomo
By Gwen Gill


Ex-editor returns to SA with American-Nigerian hunk by her side

South Africa’s stylish media princess, Khanyi Dhlomo, has a new love and a new Destiny in her life. The 34-year-old beauty — once IT billionaire Mark Shuttleworth’s companion — this week spoke about her relationship with an American-Nigerian hunk, unveiling a new true love. Chinezi Chijioke is “intelligent, kind and fun” she told the Sunday Times this week. “And we’re very happy,” she added during an interview at the launch of her new glossy businesswomen’s magazine, Destiny.

So who is the mystery man?

“We met in 2005 at the Harvard School of Business in the US, just two months after I arrived to do my Master of Business Administration,” Dhlomo revealed. “But he finished long before me. He did his undergraduate degree at Harvard and his MBA at Stanford on the west coast of the US. “ We’ve known each other for two years and have been dating for just over a year. His family is in the US — his father is Nigerian and his mother is American.”

Chijioke was director of development for LYNX Nigeria, a non-governmental organisation based in Massachusetts, that sought to mentor promising young Nigerians and develop links with the country. One of his passions is soccer. He has coached and played fullback for the Harvard University soccer squad. He was also apparently involved in a project to develop a one-month summer programme for youth in Cape Town, which served as a small-scale trial for the African Leadership Academy, an exclusive co-educational secondary boarding school in Johannesburg.

And Chijioke seems set to stay at Dhlomo’s side — nowadays he is living in South Africa and working at international business consulting firm McKinsey & Company in Johannesburg. The warm hug he gave the glamorous media executive, after her launch speech, spoke volumes. And he seems to have cracked the nod from Dhlomo’s parents, with Oscar and Venetia Dhlomo looking on approvingly as the couple smiled for the cameras. After the launch party, Chijioke was seen driving the senior Dhlomos home in his shimmering black sports car.

Dhlomo divorced dentist Sthembiso Mkhize in 2003, amid rumours that he’d been playing the field. She left South Africa in November 2003, after being appointed the new manager of Tourism South Africa (TSA) in France. “With her skills, she should be able to show the French a thing or two and convince them that South Africa delivers quality tourism products,” the head of TSA marketing said at the time.

But before Dhlomo left for Paris, attention centred on her friendship with IT billionaire Mark Shuttleworth, Africa’s first man in space. Tongues started wagging that the two, both 30-years-old at the time, were in love. Shuttleworth — who famously once described his love-life as “robust and adventurous” — said he was “fond” of Dhlomo. “I think she’s delightful. It was wonderful to meet her. I think she would be a tremendous catch. We do really enjoy each other’s company. We met twice in South Africa and once in Mauritius, while doing a magazine photo shoot — but at that stage she was married so there’s nothing going on,” he said in an interview at the time.

They made a public appearance later and had tongues wagging when they posed for photographs holding hands. But Shuttleworth said later: “We both feel fairly strongly that because we live in different countries, it’s not really appropriate for anything else, no matter how much we like each other.”
— Additional reporting by Julian Rademeyer and Amukelani Chauke


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Brief update…

Cat | Kenya,News | Thursday, January 3rd, 2008

It looks like Thursday’s planned million man rally was canceled, saving the country from a potentially huge blood bath. The attorney general called for an independent body to verify the vote tally, which is a good start. Brief update from today:

By KATHARINE HOURELD, Associated Press Writer

NAIROBI, Kenya – After police used tear gas and water cannons to break up crowds trying to march to a planned demonstration in the capital of Nairobi, a top official with Odinga’s main opposition party said the protest rally had been canceled and he called on supporters to go home. “We are a peaceful people who do not want violence,” William Ruto, a top party official told hundreds of supporters through a megaphone on a Nairobi street. “That is why we are peacefully dispersing now.”

The dispute has triggered ethnic violence across the country that killed 300 people and displaced 100,000 others.

A European Union official said Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice and EU foreign policy chief Javier Solana would discuss a proposal to mediate the crisis.

Odinga toured Nairobi’s City Mortuary, which was full of piles of bodies of babies, children, young men and women. Some were burned, while others had head wounds. “What we have just seen defies description,” Odinga said after the visit. “We can only describe it as genocide on a grand scale.” Odinga vowed more rallies would follow.

Although both sides say they are ready to talk, the Odinga and Kibaki camps have mostly traded accusations that the other is fueling ethnic violence. Odinga says he will not meet with Kibaki unless the latter concedes he lost the presidency, something Kibaki is unlikely to do.

Foreign observers have questioned the vote count, as has the chief of the nation’s electoral commission. “Because of the perception that the presidential results were rigged, it is necessary … that a proper tally of the valid certificates returned and confirmed should be undertaken immediately” by an independent body, Attorney General Amos Wako said in a statement.

Riots are getting worse

Cat | Kenya,News | Tuesday, January 1st, 2008

from the NYT
the fear in this young girl’s face really hurts me

Over 250 now reported dead, with people reportedly scared Kenya could turn into a Rwanda if the ethnic/tribal fighting doesn’t calm down. More from the NY Times:

On Monday night, several hundred Kikuyus barricaded themselves inside the Kenya Assemblies of God church in Kiambaa, a small village near the town of Eldoret. The next morning, a rowdy mob showed up. According to witnesses, the mob was mostly Kalenjins, Luhyas and Luos, Mr. Odinga’s tribe, which makes up about 13 percent of the population. They overran Kikuyu guards in front of the church and then pulled out cans of gasoline. There were no police officers around, witnesses said, and no water to put the fire out. Most people escaped. But in addition to those killed, dozens were hospitalized with severe burns. Witnesses said most of the people hiding inside had been women and children.

The Eldoret area has become a killing zone. Residents say dozens of Kikuyus have been hacked to death, including four who were beheaded on Monday.

In Nairobi, a much-feared Kikuyu street gang called the Mungiki seems to be taking revenge. According to residents in a Luo area, the Mungiki, who are said to take an oath in which they drink human blood, were sweeping through the slums and killing Luos.

© 2007 Traveling Cat