Traveling Cat

• Monday I met up with Carol for really good gluten free pizza at Col’Cacchio Pizzeria in Camps Bay. For dinner, David and I had really bad sushi at Wasabi in Constantia. Alas…
• Tuesday was Africa Day so we saw a play at the District 6 Museum. For dinner, we went to the highly entertaining Beefcakes Burger Bar, where we played “Bitchy Bingo” with a drag queen MC who sprinkled drag performances in between rounds of bingo. My ostrich burger was pretty over the top, as were the hot beefcake waiters in tight pants, wife beater tank tops, and pink aprons!
• Wednesday I toured around Groot Constantia, South Africa’s oldest farm/oldest winery. I did a tasting and brought a lovely bottle of port for enjoying at home. Wednesday night we went out with two of David’s coworkers to eat steak at Nelson’s Eye – home of the best steak in Cape Town. 9 Hof Street, Gardens, Cape Town. Tel. 021 4232601. The steak was some of the most tender meat I’ve ever eaten, definitely lived up to the hype.
• Thursday I decided to drive down the coast to Muizenberg, is a beach town that was once’s Cape Town’s finest beach. It’s still huge on the surfing scene, and still adorable (even if a bit worn down). I was impressed to see many free kiddie pools and water slides for the kids, and the changing cottages of days past were still there and still wonderfully colorful. Agatha Christie was one of the many famous people to spend holidays there. On one trip in 1922, she’s quoted as saying “Whenever we could steal time off, we got out our surf boards and went surfing.”
• Thursday for dinner David and I dined just south of there in Kalk Bay. We ate at the Harbour House in the middle of a storm. The website promised “A world class location with internationally acclaimed salads and seafoods.” The place was indeed beautiful and the views were amazing, even as the rain was pouring down. Our meals, however, were just okay. My veggies and creme brulee were both undercooked, and my springbok shank was super tender, but a bit too gamey for me. If we go again, I’ll have to try the calamari… it was calling to me but I foolishly resisted so I could try something new (springbok). I suspect we’ll have better luck next time.

The weekend/week ahead promises to be much fun! We have tickets for the Robben Island tour tomorrow and are going on a safari on Sunday so David can experience some of Africa’s famous wildlife. Next week we have dinner plans with Nicole, the fun and generous soul who hosted Susie and I the last time I was in Cape Town. I also have plans to visit two local nonprofits. And the next weekend we have a hike planned with Dave up Table Mountain and a trip to Stellenbosch to enjoy wine country. Monday night will be my last night in town and we have reservations for Madame Zingara. The website looks super fun and I think it’ll be a great celebration to close my trip!

Visitors can go to Boulders Beach for the perfect place to see the African Penguins (35R / $5 park entrance). You can skip the enterance fee and walk the free boardwalk, but if you pay the park fee, there’s a swimming beach where you’re allowed to get in the water and swim with the penguins! We paid the fee and I was super excited… I rode an ostrich the last time I was in SA and this time I’d get to swim with penguins! Sadly, no penguins were hanging out at the swimming beach. They were all on their own beach, just down the way, where we humans were confined to board walks and not allowed to jump in after them. Probably for the best as it is fall here, approaching winter, and the water was very cold. Even without the swimming, it was quite fun to visit and we got to see lots of babies too!

Babies!

David tries to talk with the penguins

We visited two different parts of Table Mountain National Park: we hung out with the African Penguins at Boulder Beach (35R / $5 park entrance) and we went to the very southern part of the cape at Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope (70R / $10 entrance to national park). Both had great views and great wildlife spotting! Near Cape Point we saw eland (a type of very large antelopes), hyraxes (look like furry marmots and live in rocky areas), baboons (who love to attack people carrying food), and even saw a couple of wild ostriches. David decided we should try to get closer, so we spent about an hour on foot trying to chase down the ostriches, only to get outsmarted/outrun by very dim witted birds. It was very fun trying though!

Proof

Cape Point

The point, and us

Eland

Ostriches

Warning signs everywhere for baboons since they’re mean, they steal, and they have big teeth

David was very curious during his first encounter with baboons

On Saturday we did a wonderful day long adventure driving down to the southern tip of the Cape and then coming back up. It took us about 12 hours, with stops to enjoy scenic lookouts, visit the penguins, eat lunch, climb out to Cape Point, chase down ostriches, marvel at the gorgeous sunset, and enjoy the Misty Cliffs and light houses as we went.

Beach front in Camps Bay. Carol called this a “tree fern” but David suspected it might be a giant pineapple…

This is either the Sentinel in Hout Bay, or Lion’s Head which is closer back by us. I think this is Lion’s Head. Either way, it’s quite gorgeous around here.

Hout Bay

Viewpoint out by Chapman’s Peak

Area called Misty Cliffs… how fitting!

Pretty pretty sunset

Lunch at Bay Cafe in Simonstown
They advertised “Best Calamari outside of Greece” and indeed, it was the best calamari I’d ever had. Super tender, no breading, and perfectly seasoned with herbs and olive oil. Quite indulgent!
thebcafe.co.za
90 St. Georges Street, Simon’s Town, Cape Town
Tel. 021 786-4529

Dinner at the wonderfully hippie Olympia Café in Kalk Bay
We had very good yellowtail (119R) with some great sauce, mashed potatoes, and a surprisely good salad (complete with fresh mango, pumpkin seeds, and other goodies). The lemon tart (31R) for dessert was fired like a creme bruleed for the perfect crisp top, and the accompanying fresh passionfruit sauce was fabulous. Local SA wine from Stellenbosch was only 25R/glass. Best meal in a long time, and least pretentious too!
134 Main Road, Kalk Bay, Cape Town
Tel. 021 788-6396

Olympia Café

In an attempt to explore the neighborhoods within 1-2km of us, we visited the V&A Waterfront last Wednesday for dinner. First stop, pre-dinner, was a biltong shop so David could experience some of SA’s finest dried meat jerky products. We bought some beef, ostrich, kudu, and springbok biltong, and David ate some of each. What a good adventurer! After the warm up to the meal, we ate dinner at Willoughby’s. “Long reputed to have the best sushi in Cape Town, Willoughby allows you to indulge in the freshest sashimi, imaginative maki and all the rest.”

Wednesday: Dinner at Willoughby and Co
Lower Level, Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

David’s first experience with biltong!

Thursday: Low key leftovers for dinner followed by Gelato Mania for dessert.
Continuing our neighborhood exploration, we went out Thursday in Greenpoint, the neighborhood about a half mile to our left. We did drinks/snacks at the Slug and Lettuce Pub, specifically Alex’s Cheese Balls. Felt a little off color and heavily dude, but was a friendly vibe overall. We also did gelato at Gelato Mania. They had a gorgeous selection, expensive prices, and great gelato.

www.gelatomania.co.za
Village Square, Hermanus, Green Point, Cape Town
Tel. 27 21 439 2074

www.slugandlettuce.co.za
107B Main Rd, Greenpoint
Tel. 021 433-2081

Friday: Lunch in Hout Bay at the Mariner’s Wharf

We joined the Amazon guys for lunch here… my calamari and chips was fantastic!

David tried the snook

The boys then went back to work and I got to spend a lovely afternoon exploring Hout Bay

Friday: Dinner at Mama Africa with live band Abakhaya.
Mama Africa is a popular Cape Town place on Long Street to eat local food and see local music. I tried bobotie for the first time – minced ostrich meat cooked with egg on top, seasoned with herbs and fruit chutney. Serious yum! The band played some African music, and also did some Ladismith Black Mambazo-style harmonies of American tunes… notably “The Lion Sleeps Tonight” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time.” My favorite was a Swahili/Kenyan song called “Malaika.” The band was lively enough that large parts of the restaurant were getting up to dance time and again. It was a very enjoyable evening out.
www.mamaafricarest.net
178 Long Street, Cape Town 8001
Tel. 021 424-8634

And because it was a Friday and we were on Long Street, we weren’t ready to call it quits yet. We checked out a cozy tapas place called Fork afterward for tea and dessert. The lemon curd and fresh strawberry meringues blew David’s mind. :)
www.fork-restaurants.co.za
84 Long Street, Cape Town 8001
Tel. 021 424-6334

Sunday: We spent a lazy day exploring the city centre on foot.
Turns out Sundays in the city centre are very quiet. Most shops were closed, and even the tourist stands had mostly disappeared. We visited Parliament (with large 1 story high soccer balls welcoming visitors to the SA World Cup), walked around the Good Hope Castle (from the 1600s), checked out old churches and walked past closed museums, and wandered through the curio stalls at Green Market Square where I bought my first SA souvenir. Tons of vendors are selling SA flags that attach over your car’s side mirrors, and I finally picked up a pair for myself. The day was pretty quiet, very chill, and I think the two liveliest moments were meals.

City Hall

Part of the skyline… some old, some new, palm trees, and mountains

Castle of Good Hope, the fort established by the Dutch in 1679

Church on Hope Street

Parliament with World Cup fever

Brunch at Lazari Night & Day - a hip gay cafe with outdoor seating near our condo. Friendly waiters who call me sweetie and tasty food options like eggs benedict, cupcakes, french toasted croissants, etc. Breakfast around 40R each ($6). I’ll agree with the website: “Classic and timeless, with exciting modern feature elements and a hint of glamour – a feel-good, yet sexy café.”
http://www.lazari.co.za
Cnr of Jarvis & Napier St, The Square, Cape Quarter,
De Waterkant, Green Point, Cape Town
Tel : 021 419 9555

Lunch at the Eastern Food Bazaar - a fast food-ish Indian place with north and south Indian food, and all of the options you could hope for at counter after counter of affordable food. Even had all of the classic Indian snack foods I ate there on the buses and from the street vendors. Win! Main courses averaged R25 (or $4). Delightful. The place was bustling and the people watching was fun. SA is called the “Rainbow Nation” and this place was the most diverse place we’ve seen yet – all walks of life from all backgrounds.
The Wellington, Darling Street, Cape Town

For only 65R (under $10), you can visit 3000+ birds and animals at World of Birds in Hout Bay. I had a free afternoon to kill last week and was thoroughly entertained by the place whose sign says they’re the “largest bird park in Africa.” If you love colorful parrots, crazy hornbills, crowned cranes, flamingos, and so many funky looking birds like you can’t imagine, you’re in for a treat! Even if you’re not a bird lover per se, there’s tons more to see. I saw meerkats (and you know how I love meerkats!), wallabies, tortoises, emus, ostriches, alpacas, duikers, jackals, foxes with giant funny ears, African penguins, giant porcupines that were bigger than sheep, raccoons, guinea pigs, and much more. They also have probably a dozen varieties of monkeys – including the squirrel monkeys that tried to steal my purse, then pulled my hair and peed on me. Good times!

The squirrel monkeys look so cute and innocent at first

It’s a super low budget place, but the habitats were much larger and freer than I was expecting. And since liability doesn’t seem to be an issue like in the states, you can just walk into many of the areas. The signs caution/request things like “please don’t chase the wallabies” or “don’t step on tortoises” or “monkeys bite.” Seems easy enough to follow the rules while still getting up close and personal with birds and animals that you’d probably never get to see so close in the states.

World of Birds
Valley Road, Hout Bay, Cape Town 7806
Tel. 021 790 2730

My camera battery was dead within minutes of arriving, so I only have a few pictures to share between my camera and my iPhone. Enjoy!

Clearly he’s up to something…

Then they pounce on you from above

“Oh, this could be fun,” you think

And then they grab your purse and quickly try the zipper to see what they can find inside. Sneaky!

Meetkats, on the other hand, just enjoy hanging out and sunning themselves…

We picked Coastal Hwy 1 for our biking route, but weren’t counting on the monsoons to come a month late. We had wet rides for many of the days, but still had an amazing time! We tried to make time as we went to stop at sights along the road side… visit temples, eat from local vendors, take in the gorgeous scenery. In Hoi An Mez was sick so we took an extra day there for him to feel better, which meant the rest of us got a day to take a cooking class. Fun!

Outdoor food market

Flying into Da Nang

Built our bikes with lots of local onlookers/helpers and are ready to go!

Mae and Mez

Cat and Mae

Hoi An fish vendor

We took a cooking class, and had to go to the market first to gather supplies

Learned to make my favorite dish – bun thit nuong!

Our instructor’s grandmother

Lemongrass chicken – yum!

More from cooking class… good times! Who says you need a $100/lesson class? We just found a 10 year old girl, asked her, and she brought us into her mom’s kitchen. Total success!

Love the mobile phone – on wheels!

Friendly snack vendors

Loved the lanterns and bought a few to take home with me. I have them hanging in my bedroom…

Bikes were locked up in a gated area with snarling watch dogs, and yet someone tried (in vain) to solve our combos. Interesting… Ready for more riding!

This post includes shots of our boat cruise in Halong Bay in November 2008. Ha Long Bay (literally “Descending Dragon Bay”) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and features thousands of limestone karsts and isles. It’s just beautiful and well worth a visit! Our three day cruise packed in a day hiking on one island, kayaking around another, a row boat ride around others, a tour through caves, all of the amazing seafood we could eat, and a wonderful chance to bear witness to Leo proposing to Maegan!

Mae gets a stylin’ new hat

Our trusty sail boat

View from the top of the hike – awesome!

Who needs 7-11 when you have traveling snack boats rowing up to you?

Kayaking

Exploring the caves

The sun comes out and Leo proposes!

Mae accepts!

A toast to love and happy futures!

A little silliness on the ferry ride back towards the airport

Free time in Cape Town means I’m finally getting a chance to post long overdue pictures! Many thanks to Elizabeth for the encouragement… here’s to hoping she has a fabulous trip of her own biking across Vietnam this summer!

This first post includes shots of Ho Chi Mihn City, our first stop in Vietnam. Enjoy!

Alexis delivers us safely to Seatac Airport. (Check out my black eye from my bike crash a few weeks before the trip… none of the wounds were healed yet, but we went and had an amazing time despite the rough start).

Arrival in sunny Saigon

Finding our way

By tank at the Reunification Palace. All around the country, reminders of the war were everywhere.

Fresh coconut juice

Seafood abounds in the outdoor markets

Insects for dinner, anyone?

View from the Sheraton Saigon Hotel, 23rd floor deck

Fruit sellers outside our hotel. We stayed at decent little place called the the Hong Hoa hotel. Had free internet, mini fridge in the room, and a grocery store on the main floor, handy for last minute goodies needed for the trip.
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao St / 250 De Tha St.
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
Tel (84.8) 836-1915
Email hotel@honghoavn.com
Online http://www.honghoavn.com

Cyclo ride

Great lunch at Xu (chili tomato soup, grilled grouper, fabulous custard dessert, and passion fruit juice).
Xu Restaurant, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung Street, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. TEL: 84-8-824-8468.

All of the dried shrimp varieties you could ever want

Cholon (Chinatown) market

Leo & Mae arrive with big smiles!

Traveling with bikes – we don’t stand our or anything ;)

Sunday: Tapas at Cafe Sofia. Yummy, and cheap!
www.cafesofia.co.za
Tel. 021 685 6780
We tried the house red wine and split four tapas. Honey Glazed Feta – With roasted pine kernels and sundried tomato. Firecrackers – Crispy fried pickled jalapenos, stuffed with melting feta cheese and ready to explode. Brown Mushrooms – Grilled mushroom cups filled with blue cheese béchamel. Trio of Dips – Aubergine dip, smoked salmon cheese dip and tsatziki dip, served with warm pita bread.

Monday: Turkish food at Anatoli. Yummy, and pricey! Drank a lovely local pinotage from Stellenbosch. Should’ve taken the label so we could compare.
www.anatoli.co.za
“Anatoli has been chosen as one of South Africa’s 10 most romantic restaurants by WINE magazine in their February issue. Almost too hot to touch, freshly baked flat breads are carried to the tables to accompany the meze presented on oversized trays. As is the tradition, waiters will explain the mezes available, numbering over 20 in total. Due to the infinite variety of fish, meat, fruits and vegetables produced in Turkey and the numerous cultures that took roots in ancient Anatolia, contemporary Turkish food is amazingly varied. At Anatoli Restaurant the main dishes available reflect this variety.”

Tuesday: Snacks on Long Street. Was feeling pretty sick and not very hungry. We wandered Long Street where David got a falafel and I had a banana milk shakes.
“Mr. Pickwicks bar-cum-eatery is open late and attracts funky, tattoo patterned indie hipsters and savvy travellers with two happy hour sessions that are both longer than an hour. 158 Long Street, Tel. 021 423 3710.”

Wednesday: Today I’m off to the hospital to get checked out. Fingers crossed it’s not malaria! Update: Went to the Christiaan Barnard Memorial Hospital to get a malaria test. It’s only a mile away and very modern. The test cost me 413 rands and I’ll find out the results when I go back in tomorrow afternoon. Compare: In Kenya the test costs literally just 1 rand, and you get the results in 5 minutes or less. Geez. I’m still hoping I just had food poisoning or something, and just want the test to rule out malaria, but wishing it would cost less to do so. Alas. Better safe than sorry…

Made it to Cape Town on Sunday and reunited with my sweetie! Funny to think this is my third trip to South Africa! Had tapas our first night and checked into our rental condo. Life was good until the very next day when I was vomiting and had diarrhea Monday. The sickness continues now onto day three so I’m off to the hospital shortly. I’m hoping I don’t have malaria or giardia again… fingers crossed. The good news is I’ve lived through both before, and neither is contagious, so even if I might have them, it won’t be all bad. Maybe it’s just food poisoning or a bug, that’d be even better. :) For now, here are a few photos of our condo. Enjoy!

Me and David

Table Mountain (from the car at rush hour)